“The root of all generosity comes down to action. How far a person will go to ensure the wellbeing of someone they have no obligation to is a standard of its own.” – Old Sean
Half-Home Reach
After a strange, hospitable day of running around the obscure town of Jubbah to discover ancient rock artworks, my friend Ahmed and I drove back to the city of Hail, Saudi Arabia.
Currently, winter is upon us, which makes the weather in the region cool and gorgeous. But it also means that darkness arrives early, making most of our afternoon activities more like night activities.
When Ahmed and I drove back into Hail, we briefly stopped at our hotel before planning a night tour of the city. The reasons were twofold: Firstly, we needed a solid dinner after an entire day of slurping down caffeine and munching on candied dates. But we also wanted to do a tourism loop around Hail, as our limited time frame made it necessary to pack in as many activities as possible.
We first stopped for a heavy meal of camel and rice before wandering out to explore the rest of the city.
Nooks and Night
Hail, as a city, isn’t the most spectacular place to visit. Most of the attractions are centrally located in a rather worn part of town, making traditional tourism a bit of a trial. Most of the city’s beautiful features are further out, sequestered in other portions of the desert.
But Ahmed and I were dedicated to discovery, so we checked out each location in the downtown area point by point.
Our first stop was Barzan Castle, which consists of two squat towers some distance from one another. The towers were supposedly property of the prominent Al Ali family. However, verifiable English-accessible historical records were scant and contradict one another. Additionally, the actual tower site is closed, surrounded by a construction wall. Furthermore, the area around the tower was a bit scruffy and darkened. Overall, the site only merited a lackluster drive-by.
Our next attempt at sightseeing was equally fruitless. We attempted to drive through the Hail Local Market, a bazaar shopping area which seemed lively at night. But the products were distinctly practical, such as hammers, rugs and laundry machines. While functional enough, it wasn’t the type of place that tourists flock to.
On our third foray through the city’s center, we tried Qishlah Palace, a stately fortification landmark full of old-town attractions. While the outer walls were enormous, they’re also somewhat bland. The site is closed for reconstruction and repair. However, Ahmed and I did spot a guardian duck sitting at the front door, white feathers waggling in the headlights. It quacked at us idly while we remained seated in our car.
After this, Ahmed and I drove somewhat aimlessly. That’s not to say we weren’t enjoying ourselves. We certainly were. There were pretty mosques and buildings in portions of the city. And many of the roundabouts are accented by some entirely unique decorations, as Saudi Arabians are prone to do. But it would be fair to say that downtown Hail isn’t a beacon of entertainment.
Lit the Way
After driving for a while, I suggested we attempt to visit the nearby summit of Al Samra Mountain (Jabal As Samra). The peak, located in the dark distance, would provide a nice overlook of the sparkling city, if nothing else.
Relaxed, Ahmed and I drove towards the mountain. Arriving was a pleasant surprise, as much of the mountain is quite interesting.
The lower portion contains a large, sprawling park with lakes, marshes, shops and fields. Known as Alsamra Park on Google Maps, it was a nice place to drive around, spotting ducks in the tall reeds.
Al Samra Mountain makes a similarly nice impression. The face of the mountain is traced in a long line of light, making a rough approximation of the Arabian Peninsula. Also crafted of lights is the palm and sword symbol of the country, glowing softly in the center of the map.
Ahmed and I enjoyed the view for a while before driving up the mountain’s road. This route leads to a parking lot, which costs twenty-five riyals to use. From here, a shuttle takes visitors to the well-developed peak of the mountain.
The upper portion of the mountain is home to a pristine cafe with white rooms, decorations and a terraced overlook to view the city below. They serve a semi-divine hazelnut hot chocolate and offer other assorted snacks. The stairs leading to the overlook below are accented by colored lights, eventually leading to a blue-tinted fountain in the shape of an eye. Water trickles as people rotate the outer edge of the plaza, snapping night photos of the horizon. It was a lovely sight overall.
While overhead, Ahmed and I spotted the famed Al-Rajhi Masjid Mosque bright in the distance. On a whim, we drove out to visit it. It was slightly less impressive up close, but still a nice last stop for the evening. We chatted for a while and turned the car back towards our hotel.
Before finishing our night, we spent a moment at a hookah lounge. Naturally, the World Cup was playing on the television, where Manchester City dominated the field to usher in their championship.
It’s worth mentioning that in other countries, I usually watch World Cup matches with something between trepidation and excitement. People get exceptionally rowdy during games. But this isn’t the nature of Saudi Arabian people. They’re a quiet spectating bunch. Groups watched the game, smoked hookah and talked softly to one another until the game was won. Afterwards, they trickled home. Ahmed and I followed their example.
We returned to our hotel just after midnight and quickly crashed. As far as days went, we had pushed fairly hard.
Glutton Dawn
The following day, Ahmed and I woke up early. It was our last day in Hail and we fully intended to make it count. Moving swiftly, we bundled ourselves downstairs for the hotel breakfast.
Now, breakfast is a rather painful understatement. The dining area was a de facto feast. There were salmon rolls, fresh omelets, Danish pastries, fancy coffees, fruit platters, smooth yogurts, crisp bread, infused waters, beef bacon and dozens of other delicacies. Ahmed and I loaded up a few plates each and made every bite count.
Afterwards, it was time to check out. We gathered our things, asked the valet for our car keys and started driving. But instead of driving back towards Riyadh, we lunged back into the desert.
As I’ve mentioned before, Hail’s real claim to fame is the enormous number of outdoor activities in the region. Ahmed and I planned on driving into the reddish-blackish stone range which dominated the horizon to the west.
Our drive was relaxing enough, with gorgeous mountains and desert flora tilting past. The stones were uncommonly scenic, framed by orange sands and made dynamic by ancient rock fall. Since rain is rare in this part of the world, erosion is strangely scarce, making weathered stones seem rounder and more dynamic, like large, bulky beasts crouching in anticipation of a hunt.
So into the mountains we went.
Let the Legend Endure
Ahmed and I drove into the mountain range looking for a very special series of ruins. We were seeking out The Home and Grave of Hatim Tai (Hatim Al-Tai), a famed historical figure and folk legend close to the time period of the Prophet Muhammad.
Hatin Tai was an Arab chieftain of the Tayyi tribe of the region during the late sixth century. He was also named the ruler of Shammar, and he was considered a grand poet. His tomb is described in the Arabian Nights. Additionally, his son, Adi ibn Hatim, was a famed companion of the prophet Muhammad. Despite the numerous honorifics associated with Hatim Tai’s life, it’s his legendary generosity which made him an enduring historical and storybook figure. He was known to be universally kind and generous to all souls who met him, and he underwent numerous efforts throughout his life to improve the wellbeing of others.
While many of his efforts are verified historical facts, there are also parable tales surrounding his life.
Hatim Tai features as the main character in Qissa-e-Hatem-tai, otherwise known as “The Tale of Hatemtai.” This story endures in the Arab world with additional fame in India and the Persian territories. Naturally, the story has details altered slightly between tellings to reflect the preferences of the cultural audiences.
So On, The Story
The collective story of Hatim Tai has a short introduction describing Hatim Tai’s ancestry. It also establishes his character as a generous and hospitable soul. Then, the remaining tales are broken into seven episodes based on seven riddles. These riddles, according to tradition, were asked by a beautiful and rich woman called Husn Banu (حسن بانو). She declares that she will only marry the individual who is able to obtain answers to all seven answers.
At this point in the story, a king falls deeply in love with Husn Banu. However, he is unable to gleen the answers to the riddles. He turns to generous Hatim Tai for advice, but rather than merely giving some supportive words, Hatim Tai undertakes a massive quest to seek out the answers so the king might marry Husn Banu.
The seven riddles are traditionally as follows:
What I saw once, I long for a second time.
Do good, and cast it upon the waters.
Do no evil; if you do, such shall you meet with.
He who speaks the truth is always tranquil.
Let him bring an account of the mountain of Nida.
Let him produce a pearl of the size of a duck’s egg’
Let him bring an account of the bath of Badgard.
The actual answers to the riddle are circumstantial in nature. There aren’t strict responses to questions, but rather cultural interpretations found through questing. This makes the individual adventures of Hatim Tai vary from modern source to modern source.
In the present moment, Hatim Tai is buried alongside his sister and wife in the mountains of Towaren, Hail, Saudi Arabia. The series of stone-marked tombs are situated outside the ruins of his old home with a four-sided wall enclosing the burial space.
Hatim Tai is a surprisingly enduring figure. His actions in life have immortalized him as a generosity icon in Arabian culture. The proverb “More generous than Hatim” is a romantic expression alluding to his life. Hatim Tai is also held up as a lasting example of aspiration Arab manliness.
Ahmed and I visited, quietly walking through the site. I assume that heavy restorations have been undertaken, as the site’s condition is far too good for adobe structures which are over 1,400 years old.
Dust Stuck
After leaving The Grave of Hatim Tai, Ahmed and I lurched out to explore the surrounding nature. The majesty of the rocky landscape defies easy description. Part of the beauty comes from shelter, as camels, palms, birds, grasses and pockets of water are all safely sequestered throughout the mountain range. Another part of the beauty stems from accessibility. The mountain edges are far across from one another, allowing for an endless network of sandy valleys to be explored on foot. But yet another aspect of the range’s nature comes from contrast. The rise of rounded boulders from flat, uniform sands is a striking image to see again, again and again.
Ahmed and I drove down dirt roads, sliding over dams and past small pools of enduring water. We rocked on dirt roads and peered at distant ridgelines. Birds flickered and chirped overhead as we navigated to the best of our ability.
We often stopped to walk around, following camel pathways and rocky trails that led nowhere but to more beauty. Again and again, we marveled at each new rock structure, desert patch of forest or dry, echoing birdsong.
Though we were mostly alone, there were a few other families seated in the area. They shied away from us whenever we rolled by, culturally preferring to keep their solitude and privacy. Despite this, it was nice watching other people enjoy nature. Families were often seated on broad blankets, resting in the shade of cars and valleys in distant nooks of the land.
This entire time, Ahmed and I wrangled with his Lexus. The car, as hardy and reliable as it is, simply wasn’t equipped for off-roading. We continuously hit places where sand was loose and mined with rocks. It was almost impossible to avoid sinking and scraping in these cases.
Eventually, we made it back to the paved road where the engine roared and the faster-spinning wheels flung pebbles and sand away. It was an honest, bold effort and I was pleased to see the trusty vehicle smoothly functioning once back in its element.
Missed Moments
After leaving the mountain range and carefully dodging several speed traps, Ahmed and I decided to start the return trip back to Riyadh. The day was still young, but we hoped to be home before midnight, as both of us had work the following day.
I was sorry for the intensity of our time crunch. Despite the jam-packed weekend, I had three things I wanted to see that we had unfortunately missed.
Firstly, within the mountain districts of Tuwarin, Qina, Al Hugayr, Naylat and Mawqaq to the west of Hail, there are numerous hidden patches of wonder worth seeking out. This includes several quiet pools of water, impressive rock climbing areas, narrow waterfalls in the wet season, bushes of thriving wild birds and stone arches carved by eons of wind. While I’m pleased with the sights I saw, I would adore a full day or three of simply hiking on foot in the area. Such sites included Azzaituna Arch, Al Jeb Oasis, Tawakkalna Falls, Oasis of Twaren and more. One merely needs to zoom in on Google Maps to see a massive number of poorly-directed map markers with Arabic script hinting at ever-more wonders in the area.
Secondly, I was sorry not to have another full day to drive to Sakaka. Located to the north of the Al Nufud Al Kabir Desert of orange sand, Sakaka is home to some truly impressive fortifications and esoteric monuments. Among these, I wished to see the Rajajil Columns and Zaabal Castle. However, both are nearly two hours away, a time commitment Ahmed and I simply couldn’t make.
Thirdly, I wish we had time to find the Ancient Mustatil located south of Hail. Mustatils are an entirely unique architectural phenomenon, the oldest large-stone ancient structures found in the world. They are prehistoric monuments crafted of sandstone walls found in the northwestern part of Saudi Arabia.
Named for their rectangular shape, mustatils include walls surrounding long central courtyards. They often include a rubble platform at one end and entrances opposite from the platform. There are over a thousand mustatils sites which have been discovered to date, though there are undoubtedly more covered by time and sand. These sites are often clustered in groups of 2–19, spread across a massive ritual landscape. The entire territory of mustatils covers over 200,000 square kilometers. Enormous in size, they range from 20 meters to over 600 meters in length, with walls that are usually around 1.2 meters high. The sandstone blocks used in construction are massive, with some weighing over 500 kilograms.
The purpose of the sites is an open mystery. One mustatil excavation discovered a chamber buried at the structure’s center containing fragments of cattle skulls. However, there were no other remains from other parts of the animals. As such, one theory regarding the mustatils suggests a ritualistic purpose, a site sacred to a previously unknown cattle-cult.
Carbon dating of these animal remains places the site’s construction between 5,300 BCE and 5,000 BCE, making them among the oldest-known ritual landscapes on Earth.
I was sorry I missed the chance to see my first mustatil. But there will be other chances surely, and I cannot complain about the overall results of my trip
This is now the pivot point of my trip with Ahmed. Thus far, we visited various villages and sites after driving out of Riyadh. We enjoyed meals and sightseeing in the city of Buraydah. We rolled through orange-sand deserts to the stunning rock artworks and quiet groves of Jubbah. And we thoroughly explored the realm around Hail in both day and night.
I will end this post here. After leaving Hail, I began driving home to Riyadh, but that was an additional heap of adventures.
So on that note, best regards and excellent trails.
Old Sean
Written Saturday, December 23rd, 2023
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