“Sometimes, travel means witnessing novelty. Sometimes, it means witnessing decay.” – Old Sean
Sagunto Parade Stopper
After a day or so enjoying our time in Valencia, Thor and I began driving north, striving to reach the town of Sagunto. We specifically wanted to visit the ruins of Sagunto Castle, a fortress overlooking the town.
The castle and adjacent town are both historically compelling. The castle’s history spans over two thousand years, with influences from Iberians, Romans, Visigoths, Moors, and Christians, The castle is divided into seven sections, reflecting different historical periods. For myself as a Roman history fan, the site has a bonus interest. During the Second Punic War, Sagunto (then called Saguntum) was besieged by Hannibal, the famous Carthaginian general, in 219 BC.
Thor and I arrived in Sagunto at an inopportune time. There was clearly a festival ongoing and the streets were absolutely packed. We were unable to find parking, so we typed in the castle address into Google Maps.
I’ve never driven in Spain before, so this was a learning experience for me. Technically speaking, there are plenty of places in old Spanish villages and historic sites where Google Maps is profoundly useless.
Thor and I snaked up roads that gradually become more narrow and impossible to navigate. Finally, we reached a point where we simply couldn’t turn around or go any further. Devoid of an exit strategy, we had to drive into the festival grounds to make a U-Turn with the hopes of descending the mountain.
We were so fed up by the entire process, we didn’t remain in the town to make another attempt to visit the castle. Instead, we sought out a proper lunch for the day.
Prime Dining Back South
Thor had picked out a fantastically upscale restaurant to the south with a broad, delicious dish of paella and top-tier wine options. Though it was in the reverse direction we expected, it was a nice detour after becoming so frustrated at Sagunto.
Once this leg of the trip was done, we turned around and prepared to head back north. Our new goal was to make it to Barcelona. We did make a single detour to walk along the green trails around the Ferreres Aqueduct, but we otherwise made good time.
Hotel Blackout
Finally, with the moon hanging overhead, Thor and I arrived at our hotel in Barcelona, staying in the neighborhood of Sant Adrià de Besòs. The strange, urban walking area is a good access point for the city since the Metro system runs nearby. It’s also unique for Les Tres Xemeneies. This structure is a concrete, imposing repurposed power station now used as an art-and-museum venue. It’s an interesting homage to the city’s industrial heritage.
The area is a good zone to visit Barcelona since it isn’t terribly crowded. Much of Barcelona’s city center is jammed-packed with traffic, so having a satellite hotel made parking and rest a lot easier.
On account of the long road trip, Thor and I called it an early night, planning to head out the next day. We were also trying to be mindful of the recent news. Barcelona has made international headlines a few times due to anti-tourism protests.
Recently, Barcelona has grappled with the negative impact of mass tourism. There are many demonstrators who criticized the influx of visitors, which made the current housing shortage worse. There are also accusation that local culture is being interrupted.
Protest actions included symbolically sealing off tourist hotspots and firing water pistols at diners in popular areas. Some protesters called for stricter regulations on tourism and reductions in cruise ship docking to alleviate strain on the city.
To be honest, Thor and I didn’t expect any sort of trouble during our visit. But we thought it was prudent to remain appraised of the news. We fell asleep, planning to head into the city early the next morning.
Gran Clariana and the Tower
When the sun rose behind a thin screen of smog, Thor and I caught a train heading into the city. We started our day around the Gran Clariana Park area, looking at the strange, rounded structure Torre Glòries.
For the rest of the dim hours of the morning, Thor and I walked to the brunch restaurant known as Malhumor. This place had elegant Arabic artwork on the wall and an impressive array of options for food. We munched dawn away before following the long route through the city to hit our major tourism hotspots.
The Sagrada Familia
The most notorious feature of Barcelona is La Sagrada Familia, a massive cathedral designed by the architectural mastermind Antoni Gaudí i Cornet. The Catalan architect Gaudí was deeply inspired by nature, incorporating organic forms, patterns, and geometry into his architectural designs. Despite his fame, Gaudí lived modestly and was often mistaken for a beggar. In the year 1926, he was struck by a tram in Barcelona and, unrecognized, received only basic care. By the time his identity was discovered, it was too late, and he passed away shortly after.
Gaudi’s work is found throughout Barcelona. Much of his work is widely appreciated, though his designs are far removed from the traditional architecture of the city.
His masterpiece was never finished during his lifetime and actually remains unfinished now. La Sagrada Familia began in 1882, but it remains incomplete to this day. Gaudí devoted the last 15 years of his life entirely to the project, yet only a quarter of it was finished when he died. The structure will hopefully be completed in 2026, marking the century after Gaudi’s death.
Despite being incomplete, La Sagrada Família stands as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most visited landmarks in the world.
The issue with La Sagrada Familia, aside from the tickets which were tricky to get online, are the crowds. Hundreds of people thronged outside the cathedral, making me profoundly nervous about pickpockets the entire time. I was pleased when Thor and I were able to get a bit of distance from the photo-taking mobs. Some of the other notable attractions we got to visit around this area include Plaça de Gaudí and the park known as Plaça de la Sagrada Família.
Bunkers El Camel
After visiting the exterior of the famed cathedral, Thor and I walked slowly north, angling for Bunker Hill. We caught a metro going the right direction before beginning the long slog upwards. But the views and walking trails above are well worth the exercise. We spent time gazing across the city.
Sadly, Barcelona isn’t…that beautiful. The population density is getting overwhelming. Smog diminishes the skyline. Lots of buildings are starting to fall into disrepair.
I’m not saying Barcelona isn’t a interesting, exciting city worth visiting. It certainly is. But the crowds and stagnant wages are clearly having an effect.
Ticket Lockout
Thor and I also tried visiting the famed Park Güell, one of my favorite spaces during my last visit to Barcelona. Naturally, the park was designed by Antoni Gaudí. It was originally intended to be a luxury housing development, but only two houses were built, and the project was ultimately converted into a park.
The park is interesting to walk through for its naturalistic features. The famous multicolored serpentine bench in the park’s main terrace is adorned with trencadís, a mosaic technique using broken ceramic tiles, a hallmark of Gaudí’s creativity. The Park Güell is home to the iconic El Drac, a colorful mosaic salamander statue at the entrance, which has become one of Barcelona’s most photographed landmarks. There are plenty of green spaces and a few buskers doing their thing.
However, on this visit, I found myself locked out. Apparently, the park is no longer free entry and tickets are needed in advanced. We were a little bummed, but that’s just an aspect of travel. We caught a train to La Rambla to the south, planning to make the most of the rest of the day.
La Rambla Ramble
We disembarked the metro at La Rambla closer to the city’s center. La Rambla is a culturally significant boulevard in Barcelona, often referred to as the heart of the city. Stretching 1.2 kilometers from Plaça de Catalunya to Port Vell, its where the majority of the upscale shopping and historical features are.
Historically, La Rambla was a drainage ditch outside the city’s medieval walls, which evolved into a bustling promenade by the 18th century. Today, it’s known for its street performers, flower stalls, and iconic landmarks like the Gran Teatre del Liceu and the Boqueria Market.
Walking through La Rambla revealed a fair number of attractions. Among them were La Pedrera – Casa Milà, Museu Egipci de Barcelona, Casa Batlló, Plaça de Catalunya, Font de Canaletes, Palau Moja and Mercat de la Boqueria.
The most interesting attraction for me was an unassuming rounded hole in the wall. Barcelona’s Baby Drop-off is a rather depressing historical landmark in the city. The small door is known historically as “la torneria,” a wooden turntable at Carrer de les Ramelleres 17, where people could anonymously leave infants. Dating back to its use in the 19th century at an orphanage, the system allowed individuals to discreetly place babies on the turntable, spinning them into the care of orphanage staff without revealing their identity.
I appreciate when cultures refuse to whitewash their own history, looking at the past as directly as possible.
Jewish Quarter
Eventually Thor and I left the bustle of the main streets to begin walking through the far quieter Jewish Quarter. The neighborhood was once home to a thriving Jewish community during the Middle Ages. Today, it features narrow streets, remnants of synagogues, and a rich history. The Jewish community faced a mass expulsion in the year 1492.
The narrow walkways and tall buildings lead through curving paths, eventually opening up to various attractions in the immediate area. Thor and I spent time at the Caelum cake shop, the Pont del Bisbe Gothic Bridge, the remnants of the MUHBA Temple d’August and most importantly, the Cathedral of Barcelona.
Visiting cathedrals in Europe is always a show-stopping experience. There’s so much care, attention and detail put into these structures, a person can spend an entire day and still fail to see every facet. Arced ceilings rose far overhead. Alcoves were decorated in dozens of gilded alters, each a fascinating, humbling piece of art. Chandeliers of wrought iron hung quietly overhead and tomb spaces were centered around elaborately carved sarcophagi.
The upper portions of the church were equally imposing. Gargoyles, angles, beasts, lions and birds were placed on spires. Views of the city below glowed with the lingering moisture of recent drizzles and current sunlight. The central open plaza was filled with protected white geese under solid trees.
After visiting the church, Thor and I spent a few extra minutes checking out the nearby Dali exposition. But largely, we were more interested in working our way through the nearby Gothic Quarter.
Gothic Quarter
Our time in the Gothic Quarter brought us past several sites including Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar, the Picasso Museum Barcelona, the Museu de la Xocolata and Ciutadella Park. We also spent an hour or so meandering through the bay area, passing near Aquàrium Barcelona.
By this point, it was time for dinner. Thor suggested the Ziryab Fusió Tapes Bar (not to be confused with the nearby, affiliated Ziryab Shisha & Cocktail Lounge Hookah Bar). The meals and drinks were excellent, rounding out an already fulfilling day. There was also a piece of artwork within, depicting a human pyramid where all the figures wore red shirts.
Apparently, this is called a castell, which is a human tower built traditionally at festivals in a part of Catalonia. At these festivals, several colles castelleres (teams that build towers) attempt to build and then dismantle a tower’s structure. On 16 November 2010, castells were declared by UNESCO to be amongst the Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. It’s pretty fun to watch Youtube videos of the festival event.
Towers and Beaches
To cap off the evening, Thor and I took a long, rambling walk to the coast. We walked along Nova Icaria Beach, blinking at unique little sights along the way. Sadly, the cemetery containing the famed sculpture The Kiss of Death was closed, but it was still a good night.
We stopped at a place called Gust Pollos & Tacos for an extra dinner, which was a fantastic little Tex-Mex Diner. The server was thrilled to hear our accents (American, I suppose, not Texan). The food was top tier.
We wandered back to the metro trundling back to our hotel.
This essentially concludes all of our time in Spain. The next leg of our trip will bring us north towards the tiny principality of Andorra.
So until then,
Best regards and excellent trails,
Old Sean
Written October 14th 2024
Attractions in Barcelona
