“I dread the day when we visit stores to buy our canisters of compressed, clean gas. What a dire purchase to imagine.” Old Sean
Amongst the Smog
Cough, Gasp. Slightly more coughing.
Pity I need to spend my air on complaining. Otherwise, I might actually get the chance for half a breath.
Dear Asian pollution deities, I was not prepared for this particular aspect of Beijing. Though the infamous winter pollution hasn’t actually swept into an oppressive smog yet, I’m struggling.
I’ve plastered a heavy-duty gas mask across my face. As such, there’s a scrawny Bane-like figure frolicking liberally through the layers of haze in downtown Beijing.
Two Months in Beijing
My time here has been rigorous. My first month was spent earning my CELTA Certification in September, which is a challenging workload. But then I began my new nightmare job in Beijing.
My workload was obscene, my spare time scarce and my boss was an incompetent, degrading health concern.
The work culture at my particular company was wretchedly toxic. The majority of foreign employees were trapped, since their passports were withheld. Several tried to quit, only to be strong-armed back into work.
Additionally, lines to HR had been severed and communication with other company branches has been purposefully stunted. This was by design, I’m sure, since it better isolated employees.
Since I had a secure work visa from my time in Chongqing, I had enough autonomy to struggle. I hid myself at a friend’s apartment, scrounged up contact information for every supervisor in the company and acted. Afterwards, I sent out a huge file full of screenshotted messages, audio files, quotes and incriminating emails regarding my direct branch manager. I sent further requests for help to the local Labor Bureau. Finally, I found myself a Chinese lawyer to keep on standby.
In effect, I torpedoed an entire branch of the company, simultaneously resigning without notice for the reasons stated above. In short, I handed in my resignation and skedaddled away from the stunted, hostile kingdom of a petulant squaller.
Spiteful Brews
My exit strategy worked. Sort of. A fair chunk of it blew up in my face.
First, the branch manager I signaled out attempted to hunt me down personally and threaten me. Then, unable to track me down, he called the PSB (Public Safety Bureau). PSB agents were sent to my address with the intent of deporting me. Chinese law states that employees with a work visa, but no job after one month of quitting can no longer legally stay in the country.
The PSB agents who were called on me were given false information. They were told I had already drastically overstayed my work-visa without employment.
Luckily, I had some forewarning and I knew my ex-manager would be vengeful. A friend gave me a place to stay while my empty apartment room was raided. I wasn’t deported, but it was clear I would have to leave soon.
Hit and Fade Escape
Using a VPN, I bought a ticket out of China to South Korea. I was lucky once more. A friend of mine from high school, Ali, was currently based in Seoul. I would rotate out of China with my single backpack and stay there on a tourist visa for the time being. My flight was in five days.
Fortunately for me, this proved to be an unnecessary escape. The full weight of my company, previously unaware of my managers misdeeds, came crashing down.
The results, I’m told, left nobody happy. My boss was exiled in shame, but he had enough dirt on the company to prevent an outright termination and deportation. But he was forced out and forbidden from future contact. Quite a few employees were put on much more stable footing. Passports were returned, legality restored and new, ethical managers were promoted internally.
Rehired in Asia
In the aftermath of this minor whirlwind, the CEO of the company tracked me down. He offered to reinstate me and told me my trip to South Korea could be considered a paid-vacation. This wasn’t done out of altruism; if I had left without notice, there would be legal and financial repercussions for the company. They wouldn’t be able to hire another employee until going through the necessary bureaucratic process.
Therefore, my resignation wasn’t accepted. I was reassigned to more obscure job responsibilities within the same company, all of which have proven respectful.
Outside the Whirlwind
However, my time in Beijing has not been solely defined by my disappointing work experience. In those rare, spare moments of gasping freedom, I’ve managed to enjoy myself. I’ve splashed my face with a bit of hot caffeine and chugged along.
I’ve met many friends during my brief time in Beijing. With them, I’ve wandered through enormous art districts, purchased tableware in crumbling factories and went bamboo rafting in a cold river outside the city. I’ve made plans to see the Great Wall, enjoyed a brief oppertunities for visiting Tianjin, and discovered secret hutongs outside of Beijing.
On one such foray outside Beijing, several friends of mine went to a rock-climbing waterfall area for a small hike to see a crashing torrent.
But it was wild. It was fake.
The water itself was real, certainly. But the actual cliff structure was just brushed concrete and rebar. A boulder had caved in, and we could see inside the mountain. Someone in China had created and entirely fake rock formation for tourists to gasp at.
Within Beijing
On a more normal note, I’ve wandered through Beijing completing normal, minor errands.
While walking around, I learned the street corn here is delicious. The food from Slow Boat Brewery will likely have a cult following in a decade or so.
During a long day trip, I scaled my first section of the Great Wall for splendid views. The hike up was rather tame, thanks to long, easy steps.
I’ve also visited various cat cafés. Meals with felines define most of my lunch plans. There’s an especially nice café which has a pair of Ocelots gazing out from glass wall.
On off days, I toured the city’s more prominent landmarks. I enjoyed delightful breakfasts during a brief stint as a college guest lecturer at Peking University. My job was to answer questions about life in America since some students are transferring there next year.
As one might imagine, I was fairly stressed during my work-drama. So I’ve also been drinking more wine than what’s strictly healthy.
To Tianjin
I also took a short trip to the nearby city of quiet Tianjin. They have an excellent European Food District, which has Italian cuisine and excellent ginger tea. While visiting Tianjin, I learned the bubble tea is dense enough to be considered a meal and skewers are a nightly treat,
I was visiting Tianjin with a fellow friend and coworker of mine. She joined me at a Mickey Mouse-themed party which we got to by renting yellow bikes to and from a KTV.
An End to A Struggling Era
Alas, this particular chapter is almost over. First, my awful boss has been ousted. With him, stress and horror will diminish greatly. Secondly, I’m taking my lovely paid vacation to Seoul. I’ll come back to China afterwards, but I intend to take some time to decompress.
When I return to China, I’ll be starting a new job position within the same company. The workplace drama caused a lot of people to get shuffled around. My new job responsibilities will likely have me trekking through the central parts of China. Therefore, Beijing will likely be a smaller part of my life over the next month. Little jaunts like visiting Tianjin and exploring the outer area of Beijing are likely to be scarce in the future as I’m shipped around China.
But before that, I need a chance to get my head on straight.
So onwards to Seoul.
Until then, best regards and excellent trails
Old Sean
Written November 26th, 2017
Check out the Leftfade Trails guide on Beijing for strange and unsual sights around the Chinese capital.
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Visiting Tianjin or Beijing in China? The country’s Great Firewall policy can make it difficult to use English-Internet resources. Protect yourself by getting a Chinese-operational VPN.
