Visiting Pamplona: Gone With the Bulls

“There’s something admirable about the part of the human spirit who looks at a charging bull and stays confident in survival and triumph. Unwise. But admirable.” – Old Sean

Into Spain

After gradually scooting further south in France, I finally made it over the border into Spain. A narrow line of brownish, rugged mountains swept past until I arrived in the city of Pamplona.

Pamplona is best known for hosting the Running of the Bulls Festival, where people of questionable self-preservation instincts sprint down streetways perused by a ceremonial herd of charging bulls. Crowds cheer on the runners and the ambitious evaders often must leap over fences to avoid getting trembled.

I’m absolutely one of those people so I was disappointed my schedule didn’t line up with the event. I was a full month too late to watch or take part in the event. Instead, I got to wander through a quiet city long after cleanup.

small pavilion in Plaza del Castillo
Plaza del Castillo

Pamplona Walks

Despite not being there during a crowded festival period, visiting Pamplona is nice. The parks are really quaint and Pamplona is a nice way to ease into Spanish culture after running around France for a while.

One particularly kind feature is a lack of cigarette smoke or people constantly asking to bum a cigarette five times a day. France had a lot of people eager to ask for some nicotine almost every time I was out in public.

Additionally, I’m fond of Spanish architecture.

French building styles have an odd effect of cradling air, enclosing and incorporating the space around it, making a lot of streets seem pleasantly light and airy. But Spanish buildings seem more solid. They often use natural, bright houseplants with balconies smoothly peering out from primary colored buildings. These apartments often overlook a steady press of cobblestoned streets tumbling every direction.

Pedestrian street in Pamplona
Pedestrian street in Pamplona

A List in Pamplona

While in Pamplona, I consumed the necessary number of chocolate churros to ensure balance in the universe at Iruna’s Café, a Hemmingway-centric venue. Afterwards, I wandered along the low city bluffs on the northern portion of town, taking in sights of walls, parks and small statues.

Afterwards, I peacefully sailed through small, shady alleys and ambled through parks for the remainder of each day.

Since the Running of the Bulls Festival is finished for the year, the city seems abnormally laid back. This might be due to the comparison in my head, however.

I ended up spending a fair amount of time looking at the broad, militant earthwork-walls of Ciudadela de Pamplona, a large 16th-centruy fortress. Later on, I curved along the river near the Murallas de Pamplona. Once I cut back into the city, I treated myself to a late lunch while visiting the Monumento al Encierro, a bronze statue of men running from, as one might expect, a herd of bowed, charging bulls.

A park in Pamplona
A park in Pamplona

Onward to Centers

I only spent one day visiting Pamplona, which was fine. If I had considerably more time, I might’ve liked to visit some of the pilgrimage trails, Fort San Cristobal or some of the famous monastery sites. But as things stood, I was happy with my day and evening.

Tomorrow, I’m heading to the Spanish capital of Madrid.

So until then,

Best regards and excellent trails,

Old Sean

Written July 31st, 2018


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