“Time will spawn it’s own fulcrums. I, for one, make a better ghost than advent.” – Old Sean
Energy Bracing
After spending some time wandering Vienna, immersing myself in grandeur, I hopped on a bus and headed towards Budapest.
For the past few days, my energy had begun to flag. I committed myself to in-depth explorations of Rome before spending my other days working or rapidly exploring Venice, Salzburg and Vienna.
By the time I got to Budapest, I could feel myself panting.
Still, Budapest is justifiably Hungary’s most famous city and a truly splendid monument in Eastern Europe. I calculated I had enough juice for the city and promptly fortified myself with a dozen espresso shots to be sure
Waking Hours in Budapest
After dropping off my gear at my hostel, I realized that I’d grown painfully low on travel supplies. I was virtually out of essentials like toothpaste, shaving cream, deodorant, shampoo, conditioner, floss and day-pack food.
Therefore, my first stop while visiting Budapest was the Westend City Shopping Center, unmistakable for it’s bizarrely tilted glass roof hovering overhead. The mall is a nice enough place to visit, and I stocked up quickly. My favorite feature was off to the side, where two broken down cars had been transformed into gardens. The engines, hoods and windows had been removed, with plants sprouting in the vehicle container.
After I was better stocked, I started walking to Margaret Island.
I neglected my research on the island, thinking it was simply a small park. But the space turned out to be much more vibrant than I expected. The island is stocked with some trick water fountains, a miniature zoo filled with horses and storks, a surprising little Japanese garden and walking trails. Also nearby, I found an odd Hippie Island area that blasts everything with psychedelic colors. The island is also home to some crumbling ruins, a rose garden, a set of rentable bikes and scooters and a stadium with a watchtower.
The island ended up eating up a large chunk of my morning. I was perfectly happy to stroll around for three hours and eat food sold at several carts in the area.
Off the Island
Admittedly, my directions heading around Budapest weren’t the best. I had thoughouly mapped out my routes and itineraries for my previous cities, but time was slowly escaping me. My research for Budapest was middling at best.
As such, I ended up getting a little lost. I accidently wandered through an art district/movie theater are I couldn’t recall the name of. The site was a nice place to breathe for a moment while enjoying an air-conditioner.
Afterwards, I headed towards the real tourism district which visitors fawn over.
Up to this point in my day, my first impressions while visiting Budapest were mildly kind, but not exceptional. I thought a lot of the neighborhoods were overly-blocky-looking with some noticeable wear-and-tear. It’s certainly nice, but it didn’t had any of the polished fineness I’ve come to expect from popular tourism cities in Europe.
However, things dramatically changed when I reached Halaszbastya, the Fisherman’s Bastion.
Overlooking Budapest
Halászbástya or Fisherman’s Bastion, is perhaps the best-known monument of Budapest, with commanding views over the river below and easy access to the nearby Buda Castle.
The spectacular castle is part of a chain of fine architecture lending itself to Budapest’s skyline. Budapest was once a pair of sister-cities existing on opposite sides of the Danube River. The Royal Capital of Buda towered on the West bank while the thriving commercial community of Pest developed to the East.
From above, it’s easy how the two cities developed differently, though in parallel to one another.
When the two cities eventually merged into one, the pair coordinated their most beautiful features directly across the river from one another. It’s as though they were showcasing so passing boats could select the fancier dock.
From above, I could easily see the Szechenyi Chain Bridge (guarded by four lions on each corner) Buda Castle, and the Statue of the Independence War all defining the west side.
On the east, I could gaze at the Hungarian Parliament building with a series of museums lounging in its shadow.
Over the next few hours, I descended from the Fisherman’s Bastion, visiting each of these attractions. By the time I got to the Hungarian Parliament, I was also able to visit the wrenching monument known as the Shoes on the Danube Promenade. The small, iron soles facing the water look hauntingly lonely, crusted with melted wax dripping down tea candles burning cozily within.
Visiting Budapest with Re-History
As I walked further into the city I passed the Soviet War Memorial and accompanying park.
There’s actually an interesting propaganda monument here that merited a resounding amount of backlash.
Past a series of fountains splashing against concrete, the Hungarian government quietly constructed an anti-war monument that toned down the powerful support Hungary supplied Germany during the Second World War. The statue has since been decried as a falsification and white-washing of Hungarian history, and strongly worded papers in laminated folders hang from a string of barbed wire admonish the governmental decision to erect such a feature.
The protest against such a monument was impressive to see. Commendable, Budapest citizens.
After finding the English-translation and reading it, I went to see Erzebet Square Park with its towering Ferris Wheel.
Next, I started the long slog up to Varosliget City Park. This beautiful park is complete with a couple of castles, a tiny zoo, a neighboring circus, boats paddling across the lakefront, few fine war memorials and enough playgrounds to keep children perpetually happy.
There’s also the famous Szechenyi Thermal Bath, which was too expensive for me to even consider, even though looking at the pretty exterior nice enough.
Onward Eastern Europe
At this point, night was encroaching and I spun around to begin the journey to bed.
I returned to my hostel, ate something unhealthy and resigned myself to rewatching animated films that required exactly zero focus on my part. I have a mini-travel projector, so I played Megamind (2010) on a hung bedsheet, enjoying my brief recovery immensely.
Sadly, I don’t have long to rest. My time visiting Budapest is already done.
Tomorrow, I head to Zagreb, Croatia followed by Split.
I also considered visiting Bosnia but dismissed Sarajevo for a variety of reasons and decided to remain close to the Mediterranean.
From Croatia, I’ll be visiting Montenegro and finally Albania, where I’ll have a ludicrous four days off to plan the final leg of my trip, catch up on an enormous buildup of paperwork and sleep like the undead made re-dead.
Until then,
Best regards and excellent trails,
Old Sean
Written August 25, 2018
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