“It’s sometimes hilariously difficult to ask a local about their country’s history. There are things they consider universally obvious, so impromptu lessons ring with strange, disconnected factiods.” – Old Sean
Coffee Haunt
My first week in Saudi Arabia was a strange orientation of new work responsibilities, local walks and heat punching downward. However, my second week allowed me to branch out somewhat.
I sampled a gradually widening list of cafés, slowly plucking out my favorites to become a regular customer. My work schedule is odd, since it’s a split schedule. I essentially work from 8 AM to 12 PM most days, with an additional shift from 5 PM to 9 PM. This leaves a hefty five hour gap in the middle, which I usually spend working or pursuing other projects at coffee shops, rather than bothering to head home.
As a result, my coffee fixation is both a relaxing halftime break and necessary work station. I’ve been to colorful little local locations such as Tiny Bird Café, where bright colors keep the walls honest. In other locations, I’ve tried the Club Book Café where quiet tables are surrounded by artful mounds of text with their swirling Arabic script.
The true gem of the explorations was Oplaisir, an upscale French dining establishment with theatrically prepared coffee options, exquisite breakfast foods, sizeable additional of pastries, breads, jams and spreads and a front-end bakery. While pricey, this is likely the best restaurant I’ve visited in Saudi Arabia so far.
There have been other cafés. There have been drive through coffee shops, iced blends, plenty of specialty cups and tea add-ons. At the beginning of my first week in Saudi, I was practically vibrating with caffeine. Now, a couple of weeks into my arrival, the jitters have leveled into a low, controlled roar in the distant background.
Heated Hops
Sadly, the vast majority of exploration in Riyadh has been hindered by the season. Summer is no time for long walks or even short jaunts. Most of my time is spent inside, seeking out the shelter of malls, work or other houses. And while malls in Saudi are extremely well-designed and have plenty of interesting art (such as Riyadh Gallery Mall and Cenomi U Walk) there’s only so much time a man can spend in a commodified airplane hangar.
On occasions when I did brave the heat, the results were tepid.
During one long, slow drive, I wound through the massive King Saud University campus, with arcing stone gateways and modern, uniquely-angled buildings.
A bit later on, I wandered through the various sections of the embassy district, culminating in a drive past the currently-under-construction Tuwaiq Palace.
A bit to the south, I joined Ahmed on a tour through Wadi Hanifah, a long seasonal river-valley which rests on the Western boarder of Riyadh. The area is defined by tan, desert baked stones with crumbling faces toppling into a long, somewhat steep canyon. The river during the summer months is a dry memory, water vanished from a flat plane with gnarled desert plants struggling to endure the lack of moisture. The riverbed eventually leads to Wadi Hanifah Lake, a shallow, wide and reflective body of water surrounded by boulders and shady trees, where a few quiet families picnic. Overall, it’s a calm little patch of land, but there is remarkably little to do in the area.
Overall, with the exception of some time spent visiting friends, most of my explorations of Riyadh were lackluster.
However, one evening, I summoned an Uber to whisk me to Diriyah Fortress, and rediscovered my old, timeless passion: Ruin hopping.
Where the Desert Meets
Diriyah District isn’t just a series of ancient ruins; it’s actually a compelling series of modern buildings and museums fringed by eateries all built in a modernized version of the traditional Najdi architectural style. This method of construction, hundreds of years ago, utilized packed and baked mud-brick walls extending high over desert terrain. The bases are wide and rough, while narrow slits pattern the middle portion, likely firing holes or viewing windows. Further up, tiny open triangles allow ventilation and decrease the overall weight of the structure.
The modernized part of Diriyah is impressive to behold, especially at night. Tan stones, winding walkways, palm groves and soft lights over photo-points and plazas are the defining attributes. The walking gardens are filled with odd unlit-light-bulb bushes, likely part of an ongoing beautification project in the region. There are several ruins in this area which have undergone reinforcement, but not restoration. These are walled off by glass and propped up by sturdy wooden beams.
All of this at night is especially impressive. The ruins are lit from below and the street lamps are often patterned poles glowing a slightly yellow-hue above. Furthermore, many of the brightest lights are traditional Arabian lantern designs, soothing the darkness away. Even palm trees bordering walking paths have their own lights. These are interesting things, utilizing rough-rope-textured cables which snake between knobby points on the tree trunk, blending in smoothly with the plant-structure.
I spent a couple of hours looping through this corner of Diriyah. I stopped for cool drinks, melded with the crowd walking up to overlooks, peered at artwork inscribed on doors, browsed the local museums, looped the traditional carousel and traced fingers along sequestered potted plants.
It’s Complex
Though the modern part of Diriyah is lovely, the ancient part is the crown jewel. Riyadh is currently striving hard to make itself more appealing to tourism (as many visitors are drawn to places like Bahrain and Dubai instead). As such, restoration projects over the past few years have been diligent and expansive.
Currently, to better promote tourism, entry into Diriyah is free.
I began walking towards the main fortress, maneuvering around the thin crowds trekking through the ruins.
Calling Diriyah’s ancient structure a “fortress” is a bit misleading. Though the ancient structure did indeed see combat between the emerging Arab powers and the dominant Ottoman Empire, its primary functions were far more nuanced. Diriyah was a waystation for caravans and desert travelers, an important religious site as the Saud Family gained prominence and an access point for the nearby wadi.
As such, the Fortress is much more of a complex, with sprawling streets, defensible walls, and quiet areas for worship, stables and dozens of other features necessary for life in the desert.
Diriyah’s history is profound, reaching back to the Islamic Prophet Muhammad’s era. The restored ruins are being utilized as a cultural renewal and reconnection for Saudi Arabians, due to Diriyah’s religious, historic, cultural and military significance.
Walking through the ruins is profound treat. Some walls and roads have completely been restored and reinforced, providing curving, well-lit pathways through an ancient city. Some other portions have been wildly improved, now hosting air-conditioned museums, functional cafés and active centers of quiet worship. Meanwhile, other portions are kept in a state of semi-ruin, demonstrating the ancient history of the structure. These areas, which include the remains of rounded pillars, collapsed walls, rickety wells and battle-scared walls, are often lit by softly-glowing spotlights, making the entire structure seem orange-or-pinkish in the distance.
Diriyah Tidbits
The museums within Diriyah blessedly have English lettering, making education possible alongside aesthetic appreciation. Large exhibits focus on the Prophet Muhammad’s teachings and influences on the region. Other sections pay close attention to the Arabian Peninsula tribes, such as the umbrella-termed Bedouins, Arabic-speaking nomadic peoples of the Middle Eastern deserts.
Still other sections are dedicated to the Fortress’ military history, showcasing ancient cavalry swords, muzzle-loaded rifles, polished artillery pieces, and traditional desert-warrior garb. My personal favorite section focused on the horse elements, which kept delightfully ornate saddles, numerous tile-artworks of horses and in-depth facts about cavalry’s role in Diriyah.
There were also portions of the ruins which played swaying music, with projectors shining walls of light with traditional Arabic patterns on rough stone surfaces.
The last few sections of Diriyah depicted living conditions, mercantile traditions, and judicial rulings centered around the city. Before leaving the temple grounds, I made a slow loop through the large palm garden, pausing to rest occasionally under rough seating platforms.
A National Stand
There’s a common phrase for those who study modern history:
If all the history you’re reading makes you feel warm and cozy and proud, you’re not reading history. You’re reading propaganda.
Which, by and large, is true. However, it would be folly to assume that fellow nationals who share a culture, heritage and destiny don’t have moments of profound triumph. For all of history’s dredging realities, there are moments of true evidence showing the endurance of human spirit.
Muhammad ibn Saud, first founder of the Saudi State, is famed for his conquest of the Nejd region, most especially for the Saudis’ conquest of the holy cities of Mecca and Medina. This rapid expansion and rising new power deeply alarmed the Ottoman Empire. Their reassertion of regional control led to the Ottoman-Saudi War of 1811–1818 and an invasion of Arabia by the Ottoman Empire and Egyptian forces.
An Egyptian army assaulted Diriyah, sieging the settlement for months. During the course of the conflict, the Egyptians are thought to have lost 10,000 men, and the Saudi forces 1,800. Once Diriyah was breached, the remaining defeated citizens of Diriyah largely relocated to Riyadh, letting Diriyah stand hollow as a sand-battered shell of its former self.
Eventually, the area was resettled, largely by former nomads (Bedouin). The small township was eventually incorporated into the Saudi State and the ancient ruins have undergone meticulous restorations ever since.
Back in the Oven
With Diriyah successfully visited, my activities in Riyadh have slowed down once more. For such a major city, there’s relatively little to do in Riyadh from an entertainment standpoint. Most of the things I’m personally interested in are further out in the desert. The city itself is mostly geared towards dining, café culture, malls and the occasional novelty culinary experience.
Despite this, I’ve enjoyed my time here so far. I’m eager to try leaving the city at some point in the hopes of visiting new trails and hiking locations once the weather cools.
So until then,
Best regards and excellent trails,
Old Sean
Written July 23rd 2023
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Ten years ago, I abandoned my military surplus store backpack for a Farpoint 40 Osprey Travel Pack. I’ve never replaced my bag since. Two years ago, I bought two more Osprey Backpacks for my younger siblings on their first tour outside the country. I have nothing but praise for Osprey Products.
