“The multi-generation machinations of the Catholic Church always fascinate me. Centuries of construction in nearly every European nation created some of the most impressive architecture known to man.” – Old Sean
Dawn Drive
After spending a day and a night recovering in Toulouse, Thor and I decided to check out some of the nearby UNESCO Heritage sites within driving distance. Our first target was Albi, France.
The Episcopal City of Albi, including the cathedral, the Berbie Palace, and the surrounding old town, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2010, It’s notorious for its massive brick cathedral, know as the Saine-Cécile Cathedral. This is the largest brick cathedral in the world, built as a show of Catholic dominance following the Albigensian Crusade.
This is my first time exploring Europe by car, so I was eager to check out locations beyond the major cities. In every other instance, I always arrive in Europe while relying on public transportation. It was nice to have the option for another mode of travel and checking out far-flung places on my own time.
We woke up early and drove east, seeking out the town of Abli. The city’s roots trace back to pre-Roman times, but its most prominent historical period began during the Middle Ages. At that point in history, Albi became a center of wealth from the local pastel dye trade (bleu du cocagne), a rare blue pigment extracted from woad plants.
Parking Play
Upon initially arriving in Albi, Thor and I spent a fair chunk of time figuring out the parking situation. Admittedly, the biggest hindrance we faced throughout the entire trip was parking. In almost every urban center, parking was tedious, crowded, expensive, and difficult to maneuver into. So upon getting to Abli and finding a parking space, nearly fifteen minutes of our day was spent figuring out how to sync up the broken digital parking meter with our rental.
Once we’d finally managed to park for the day, we started walking towards the brick cathedral. Our walk took us past the following pleasant landmarks, including Jardin National, La Maison du Vieil Alby, the Church of St. Salvy and the Berbie Palace.
But it was the cathedral, an imposing brick structure spearing into the sky, which demanded our full attention.
Thor and I walked through the entryway and fell silent. Everything about the cathedral seemed larger-than-life, an impossible tower of art on every surface. We were granted a listening guide as we wandered through the structure.
The Height of Faith
The Cathedral of Saint Cecilia of Albi is the seat of the Catholic Archbishop of Albi. Originally built following the aftermath of the Albigensian Crusade, the grim exterior of the building resembles a fortress with tall, imposing walls and serious brick designs. However, the interior is lavishly decorated with art and sculptures. There exists a very ornate choir screen, and walls in bright blues and golds, in the Toulousian or Southern French Gothic style. Also visible are geometric patterns, a marble-carved pulpit, a restored pipe organ, numerous protected relics, and alcoves with further sculptures.
The Cathedral began construction in 1282 and remained under construction for 200 years. It is claimed to be the largest brick building in the world. Ironically, the brick design was intentional, a serious display of plain materials to undermine accusations that the Catholic Church was swayed by ostentatious designs and displays of flamboyant wealth. But over the centuries, more and more artistic features have been added until the masterpiece of the modern era came to be.
Thor and I basically spent all of our time in the cathedral. Everything was crafted with so much detail and so many layers, that staring at a single point takes a person’s entire attention. The frontal entryway was the only non-brick portion of the exterior, a layered arch of complex stone struts and carvings. The main entryway led to a massive, vaulted ceiling with dauntingly detailed blue patterns, marked by symbols and white vines. The restored organ on the far wall was capped with wooden carved figures atop each pipe. The entryway near the main altar depicted incredible scenes of demons torturing souls with a wide range of creative punishments. Further back, the church was filled with carved seats for the choir and spiraling stairs leading to relics.
Only a growing hunger and anticipation for lunchtime finally led Thor and I out of the amazing building.
Side-Hug Diner
After our time in the church, Thor and I took a small, meandering tour in a slightly overcast, walking under an ivy tunnel at Jardins Du Palais. The tunnel offered fantastic views of the nearby river and manicured gardens.
Finally, Thor and I made it to our restaurant of the day: L’Esprit Du Moulin. There, we ordered courses of lamb and traditional Cassoulet.
One of the entertaining things about going abroad is getting reminded how other countries deal with personal space bubbles and physical interactions. While ordering, my waiter was happy to sling a hand around my shoulders while pointing out items.
This isn’t even terribly unusual in France, especially in the smaller towns. But I still find it a tad jarring, especially after coming from a country where the most physical interactions I deal with among strangers are handshakes and fist bumps.
Regardless, it was a nice meal. We were interrupted at some point by a massive swell of sound like a tin siren going off repeatedly. Upon investigation, the noise extended from a protest-parade. Citizens were apparently unhappy about the unfulfilled political promises of the current municipality. We were granted flyers that took some translation when I asked about it.
Torrential
At this point, it was time for Thor and I to return home, driving back to Toulouse for a half-day of rest. I wanted to try visiting Gaillac on the way home, but an unyielding rainstorm rushed in from the west, lodging us in a constant, shallow field of water.
In the end, we returned to Toulouse, spending a fair chunk of our remaining day resting away from the rain.
This was one of two trips that Thor and I took in Toulouse. Our next journey would bring us to Carcassonne. But until then.
Best regards and excellent trails,
Old Sean
Written October 18th 2024
Activities in Albi
