“What a world came before us. What a world our ancestors stewarded. And what a world we have briefly inherited.” -Old Sean
Passport Problems
You know that feeling when you know you’re forgetting something, but you’re too groggy to care, emote or even mumble about the vague premonition to the surrounding air?
That feeling was alive and well when Kat and I rolled into Bagan. It took a few minutes to realize we had promptly abandoned Kat’s passport in the taxi.
Only through the combined efforts of a lovely hotel staff, the taxi driver’s entire visiting family and a scooter we were able to retrieve it. I took the scooter to chase down the taxi, warping through the streets at a whopping 15 kph. The vital document retrieved and a steady stream of dread mini-heart attacks subsided.
If there’s one thing I’ve learned while traveling, it’s that it’s virtually impossible to do it well without heaps of sleep. Rest is the cornerstone of informed and healthy travel throughout the world.
Ignoring Naps
On that note, Kat and I sort of… didn’t rest. Instead, we shook ourselves unwisely, propped our eyes open with caffeine and started exploring the most impressive temple safari district in the world.
Now, the best way to experience Bagan is to rent yourself a two wheeled vehicle, a comically bright helmet and immediately get lost.
The massive archeological safari of Bagan hosts well over 2,000 pagodas in varying states of repair. The rest are undergoing controversial conservation efforts. The expanse is flat, vast and dusty, scraggly clusters of trees turning the land into veritable wilderness.
Conserving the Safari
The conservation efforts regarding these pagodas is surprisingly controversial.
Some of the techniques being used are considered too far from the original building materials and methodologies. Many of the pagodas, temples and stupas (looming over the safari in a perfect Indiana-Jones vibe) are considered fabrications rather than restorations.
That being said, different groups are responsible for different reconstructions over the years, which makes these arguments ebb and flow. There’s also concern about the hotel industry muscling into the UNESCO world heritage grounds to cater to tourists. There’s worry that the industry may potentially damage some of the holy structures while fencing off others as part of the hotel properties.
The Safari City
Bagan the city (where people actually reside and work) is divided into two separate small communities. The first is New Bagan, where the restaurants and the entryways to the more famous pagodas and temples reside. Old Bagan is further along the river, where there are more affordable housing options and a slew of new restaurants.
My favorite restaurant in this area was The Moon, Be Kind to Animals. I’ve generally found I don’t like too many Burma dishes. Many of them are a bit dense and oily for me. But this restaurant balances their delicacies, making them delicious and snackable.
Anyway, after touring some of the more local areas, Kat and I decided to delve into the safari. We put on our helmets, revved out tiny scooter engine and took off
At which point we (I) immediately crashed our scooter. Twice. In my defense, it’s a toy with 30 cc’s and thin wheels. I’m driving on loose dirt and sand with another person on the back
Against my defense, the thing doesn’t go over 15 kph, so control shouldn’t have been such an issue. Kat managed to forgive me after I didn’t kill us both, which counts as a mild win.
I managed to teach Kat how to ride a bit on her own. Although, after throwing her from the vehicle twice, I doubt my instructions were taken with the utmost faith.
However, Kat managed well. She took us around numerous ruins, skimming over sand patches like a pro. She only crashed and sent me dirt-ward once.
My old Texas dirt-bike instructor would have called her “Not a natural, but nine damns better than you.”
And he’d be right.
The Orange Heavens
We spent all day zooming around, checking out different temples, pagoda, stupas and ruins. Out main goal for the end of the day was to catch a sunset atop a pagoda.
Unfortunately, tourist visiting Bagan managed to fall to his death a year or so ago. Now, the majority of the 2500 ancient structures have the second story closed. There are still some pagodas which have the second story open to view the savannah. But these are tough to find without local knowledge.
Kat and I, utterly lost, decided to bribe a local small child. He agreed to take us to a “secret” viewing spot provided we paid him and bought his sand-painting artwork.
Then, our new guide brought us to a second story pagoda deep in the safari. It would have been a challenge to find a place for the sunset without help.
If you do manage to snag a spot, settle in, and get ready to cuddle in the heat. Those upper pagoda views are scarce and many people will pay, filling up the sunset balcony.
Mountain of the Nats
The following day, we went to Mt. Popa, a sharp, jutting cliff with an armada of stairs curving up the exterior of the mountain. These stairs were populated by obese, deeply spoiled monkeys. Tourists often feed the monkeys, which accents their aggression.
The mountain is a wonderful view and splendid shrine, housing four of Burma’s most powerful Nat spirits (Byatta, Me Wunna and the Mahagiri Nats).
Nats are god-like spiritual beings of Burma’s culture and have a connected and reflected nature with Buddhist belief systems. The worship of Nats predates Buddhism in the area and exists as an extremely varied pseudo-polytheistic spiritual system.
There are 37 Greater Nats which translates rather poorly (Green Nats, Green Spirits, Fresh Spirits or Raw Nats), many of which were great humans who died violent deaths. Meanwhile, uncountable lesser Nats are often tied to locations of major importance, natural features of the landscape and community centers.
The vast majority of rural villages in Burma have a lesser Nat which protects the village (nat sin). When Buddhism reached the land, Nat worship was melded with Buddhist belief systems.
The Monkey Troops
While climbing Mt. Popa, we joined a lovely woman named Christine who regaled us with stories during the entire climb up. Sadly, she might have lost a few strands of hair when she rescued her unattended backpack from a rather belligerent monkey.
Mt. Popa’s monkeys are a tremendous problem. Half the tour guides, shopkeepers and caretaking monks on the mountain are armed with slingshots ready to ward away the little beasts.
I was actually a beneficiary of one of these defenders. When a potbellied male monkey lurched close, hooting and making grabbing motions towards my shirt, I heard a sudden crack which sent the creature coughing away.
Turning, I viewed my savior. There stood a nine-year-old monk child in bright robes with a shaved head, his arm looped through a metal stairwell with a slingshot still jiggling slightly in his hand.
A Last Evening Visiting Bagan
After our time at Mt. Popa, Kat and I returned to Bagan. We were dropped off on the outskirts of the city and saw the usual locals hanging around. Many had deep, red mouths and stained teeth brought on by the addictive betel nut. It’s an infamous addictive substance in the region.
We eventually made it into the central square of Old Bagan, browsing a few of the tourist shops. My favorite spots had intricate elephant puppets painted white with patterns and made of wood hanging from shop ceilings.
As we continued to browse, there was also a fantastic procession of exquisitely dressed people gliding past. The locals were doing something of a ceremonial parade which involved a lot of loud noise, traditional attire, horse and oxen. I didn’t quite understand the local explination, but I think it’s some sort of marriage or coming-of-age ceremony. Many members of the parade were young women dressed in intricate traditional dresses with parasols.
Our day continued for a bit longer, as we spent some time posing with the locals. (Many locals seemed amused by photos with a pale-skinned, dusty guy.) We overlooked the river at Lawka Nanda Riverside Pagoda. Meanwhile, a small, black stray puppy spent her time wiggling around our feet for pats, which she received. It was a good way to spend a sunset.
Farewell, Bagan
The next morning, Kat and I woke up a early watch the sun rise. We drove the scooter into the safari, hoping to find a decent overlook area. We eventually perched ourselves atop a nice hill which we had scoped out the day before.
Apparently, our hill became quite popular. Other travelers visiting Bagan saw us atop the hill and joined us on the crest. A small crowd slowly swelled, following our apparent confidence.
The sun rose first, which was an impressive orb of ruddy light cutting the morning mists and dust. But soon after, Bagan’s famous fleet of hot air balloons drifted over the scene.
The balloons are an amazing sight, with about twenty whisked through the sky each morning. They cover the length of the safari, bright canvases extra bright in the rays of a rising sun.
For the rest of the day, Kat and I enjoyed more explorations, more temples, more pagodas and general wandering on our scuffed scooter.
We also managed to catch up to a few of the expansive cattle and goat herds of the area. There are a few perceptive semi-nomadic herders who range through the archeological dig sites.
Sadly, that was all the time we had for visiting Bagan. We’re gradually running low on time in Burma, with only one place left to visit.
Today, while the sun is still high, Kat and I are taking a bus to Yangon. It is the next, the last stop on our trip through this country.
Until then,
Best regards and excellent trails,
Old Sean
Written February 25th, 2018
Read more about travels through Asia, including other interesting things to do while visiting Bagan, by visiting the Leftade Trails Destination Advice
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Merino Wool Travel Buff
I often travel with a piece of equipment called a “buff” or “magic scarf.” This simple tube of stretchy fabric is the ultimate multitool. It can be a sleeping mask, a head covering, ear covers in cold weather or a scarf. While visiting Bagan, I used mine while riding motorcycles around the countryside, saving myself from a serious lungful of dust. For those visiting Bagan during the dry season, I highly recommend the Multiuse Merino Wool Travel Buff. The two I’ve used have lasted since 2016. They’re versatile, tough, handy and machine-washable.
