“There are plenty of things to be grateful for in the modern era. Among the top items that come to mind when touring castles; I’ll never be an expendable peasant spearman being thrown at the walls of a class European castle.” – Old Sean
Overcast Aways
While staying in the city of Toulouse, Thor and I made a point of visiting the fortified French city of Carcassonne, waking early to begin a short jaunt to the east.
Carcassonne is one of the truly ancient settlements of Europe, with a history extending back to the Neolithic era. The Roman Empire also fortified and resided in the location, occupying its hilltop until the demise of the Western Roman Empire.
The city itself was officially founded by the Visigoths, who founded the city of Carcassonne as part of the newly established Visigothic Kingdom. The most famed feature of Carcassonne is a heavily fortified citadel-castle, the Cité de Carcassonne. The structure, originally Gallo-Roman, was restored by the theorist and architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc between 1853 and 1879. The Cité de Carcassonne was added to the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites in 1997.
Overstating the impressive nature of the fortifications is nearly impossible. It remains an important regional chokepoint and holds sway over the surrounding lowlands. The citadel was constructed with a unique double-walled fortifications, complete with 52 towers, were built to withstand sieges, making it a significant military stronghold during the Middle Ages.
Quiet Stroll
When Thor and I first arrived in Carcassonne, we opted to park in the lower part of the city on the opposite side of the river. We were seeking out better breakfast options in the La Bastide Saint-Louis central historic neighborhood.
Our resulting tour of the area took us through narrow streets, lively plazas, old buildings, and along a scenic river. During our mini-hike, we got to see Canal du Midi de Carcassonne, Église Saint-Vincent de Carcassonne, the Church of Saint Michael of Carcassonne, La Fontaine de Neptune, Pont Vieux, Jardin Bellevue, Calvaire Garden and a breakfast place with plenty of caffeinated beverages available.
It was a supremely nice walk through the city and a fair way to start the day and stretch our legs. Finally, however, we turned our attention to the castle.
Getting to the fortifications is a simple process, but a bit of an uphill hike. The lower urban space is packed with traditional buildings, but all only sell outrageously expensive goods. Thor and I were pleased to freely enter the castle itself, which didn’t require tickets to visit the old, enclosed lanes.
Among the Fortified Walls
Once Thor and I entered the main area of the castle, it took us a full hour to fully explore the interior. Roads looped around, often erring into strategic chokepoints. Grey walls merged with green ivy, iron gates fringing the outer exits. Cliffs plunged in most directions and the views of the surrounding city and countryside were impressive. Grey spires brought buildings to new heights and an endless number of museums and shops were found around every corner.
Thor and I opted out of spending more money within the castle, but it was still impressive. We passed weapon shops, breweries, souvenir stores, and historic landmarks. Especially interesting were the Outer Walls of Carcassonne, the Basilique Saint Nazaire, Château Comtal, the Museum of the Inquisition, Porte Narbonnaise and Porte d’Aude. We also enjoyed visiting the outer cemetery, Cimetière de la Cité de Carcassonne.
Essentially, this is the point when Thor and I finished our little tour. Recall that this is the middle of the second week of our trip, and we’d been driving across huge swaths of Europe. I was pleased to take a half-day adventure, returning to Toulouse for some more rest.
Soon, our time in Toulouse will come to a close. We’ll embark on a ponderous road trip north heading to our European exit destination; Paris.
So until then,
Best regards and excellent trails,
Old Sean
Written October 19th, 2024
