Visiting Chiang Mai: Art of Old Wall Walks

“The internet is entertaining. An Asian night market street might be the only thing similarly diverting.” -Old Sean

Siam in the North

Following my time in Bangkok, I began wandering north. My roommate Kat and I were planning on working our way North through Thailand, gradually working our way to Myanmar (Burma). In the meantime, however, we got to enjoy some of Thailand’s most beautiful cities.

We started our journey by visiting Chiang Mai. Located in rolling green mountains, the city is notorious for an Old Walled portion of the city (Old Town) and an incredibly active night market.

A black and gold Thai temple with white naga statues out front in Chiang Mai — The strange structure known as The Black House, or “Baan Dam” in Thai, located in Chiang Mai

The Temple Cycles

Kat and I got a hostel in the more modernized part of town and rented a pair of bicycles for exploration. The early part of our day was spent wandering back and forth around the city, trying to spot various temples. Eventually, we rotated inwards until we were primarily cycling around Old Town.

Chiang Mai is an absolute treasure trove of odd temples. While much of the city is profoundly traditional, there are the occasional stylized temples which follow a singular theme or style.

Since Kat and I were mostly killing time, we ended backtracking frequently, without much rhyme or reason. The first temple we saw was Wat Chai Phrakiat. This was a very active temple with many monks in orange robes wandering around. Many were seated, meditating or praying. Others were building bamboo scaffolding towards an older temple disconnected from the plaza area.

We also stopped at Wat Chiang Man Buddhist Temple, a beautifully ornate structure. This is the oldest Buddhist temple of Old Town. Afterwards we stopped for some chilled tea (which tasted a bit like barley) before visiting Wat Chedi Luang (a somewhat blocky complex made of three smaller temples built facing one another) and Wat Umong Mahathera Chan. This was somewhat smaller than the majority of temples in central Chiang Mai. But the temple was a quieter area with a unique Buddha statue displaying several different expressions.

A paper plate filled with unique street foods including green and blue sticky rice, sliced mangos, edible purple flowers and jackfruit — Green and blue rice with mango slices, jackfruit and edible flowers

That Edible Good Night

After a day of lounging, biking and visiting small shops, cafés and temples, night was finally falling. We were very excited by this. The main reason Kat and I had decided to spend a night at Chiang Mai was to experience the incredible Chiang Mai Night Market.

Various vendors on narrow streets just outside of temple areas began setting up canvas awnings and laying out goods beneath them. There are a lot of cool and traditional trinkets scattered around. The best features are the traditional Thai lanterns which come in a variety of shapes and colors, hung on thin metal beams.

But by far, the best part of the Night Market is the food.

Mini-ice creams served on painter pallets, spicy soup bowls with white rice in the shape of sesame-topped mountains, chicken-and-fish wooden skewers, yellow and blue rice piled in heart shapes, edible flowers decorating plates, and grass-jelly tea are all things I consumed with terrifying gusto.

During my time in Southeast Asia, I have tried several night markets in various locations, but the ones in Chiang Mai are in a league of their own.

By Lantern Light

A silhouette figure takes a photo of a seated buddha statue beneath a tree of lights behind a serene, small pond while visiting Chiang Mai. — Brightly lit meditation tree on temple grounds at night in Chiang Mai

When true night began to fall, the streets of Chiang Mai began to shine. The temples are positively glowing with lit decorations, backlighting bamboo patches even while monks continue construction work into the night.

For the majority of the day, getting around Chiang Mai on foot was quite easy. The streets are very walkable and the enclosed Old Town area is simple to navigate. But during the Night Market, crowds emerge from all other portions of the outer city.

The Chiang Mai Night Market crowds are dense monstrosities, making bobbing and weaving a necessary walking skill. We were essentially enclosed in Old Town, the central walled area of the city.

Beside purple flowers, several monks in orange robes construct a stairwell out of bamboo in Chiang Mai. — Orange robed monks construct a staircase in Chiang Mai

A Single, Fine Moment

Once our bellies were bulging, Kat and I gradually wandered back to our hotel, walking with our bikes beside us. We exited Old Town through the Tha Phae Gate Entrance, which overarches the moat into the city,

Chiang Mai is a beautiful and wonderous town. Other travelers I’ve spoken to have high praise for the countryside and outer areas of the city. In a different life, I would have appreciated much more time exploring the city.

However, our vacation time in Southeast Asia is limited. We didn’t have any more time set aside for visiting Chiang Mai. We’re heading off to Chiang Rai next, specifically to see an ethical elephant sanctuary.

So until then.

Best regards and excellent trails,

Old Sean

Written February 14th, 2018

Read a full list of recommended places while visiting Chang Mai by clicking here

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Skog Å Kust DrySåk

When visiting Chiang Mai, travelers are walking into a tropical zone known for pickpockets and heavy downpours. I highly recommend the Skog Å Kust DrySåk day-bag for this area. Totally waterproof with a roll-down top to prevent theft, this is an excellent tool for any traveler.