“It’s funny to see humans living everywhere, happy in their little pocket between crushing heat and locking cold.” – Old Sean
Heat Slog
After spending an excellent night and day in Porto, I headed to Coimbra, a famed university town in Portugal.
Coimbra proved itself to be an enormous challenge while visiting. I entered the city by stepping off a train, finding the urban space almost entirely quiet. Everyone was hibernating through the hottest part of the day.
And that heat was profound, scorching me at record temperatures. Unable to find a taxi, I opted to walk to the my hostel, sticking close to the shady side of the street.
It didn’t save me. I had to stop every ten minutes and refill my water bottle. My clothes became sodden with sweat and level ground felt taxing. I was practically frosted in sunscreen, trying to avoid growing pink.
Sadly, I seemed to have missed my left-ear. Technically, I’m deaf in that ear, so it doesn’t matter too strongly. Nevertheless, sunburns are never a pleasant experience.
I finally made it to my hostel, checked in an marched upstairs, taking the most chilling shower I could withstand. After my body temperature was lowered somewhat, I dunked some shorts and a T-shirt into some cold water, put it one, and laid down in my room with the AC blasting.
Cooler Heads
Eventually, the sun began to set and I had a chance to enjoy Coimbra’s non-sweltering charms. The city is owl, well-made and actually quite beautiful, especially on the Old Town hill in the center.
I visited the University the city is so proud of, checked out yet another Cathedral, and browsed the Jardim da Sereia Park and the Botanical Garden of the University.
Afterwards, I felt accomplished, ate an apple, blasted more of the hostel AC and began to snooze as deeply as possible.
I haven’t been sleeping well during the heat wave and a functional AC in Western Europe is a rare luxury.
Morning Rise
Fortunately, the following day was slightly cooler.
I enjoyed my time down near the river, where things are a bit more active. It seems like a lot of Portuguese towns put all the important sites way up on the cliffs and hills, eventually sending all their entertainment and shops to the low ground for tourists.
I slowly looped through the city, checking out various museums and shops until it was time to check out of my hostel.
Coimbra was only ever intended to be a quick-stop, so I didn’t have high expectations while visiting.
I was due in the much larger city of Lisbon next, so I gathered my things once more and headed back to the train station. Blessedly, the heat was manageable during my early walk, but the temperature began to climb again as I reached the station.
Unfortunately, leaving Coimbra was a bit of a nightmare.
The train was two and a half hours late with a non-functioning AC. While crowds of people melted in un-air-conditioned cars, I ended up hiding in one of the first class cars which still had working AC, standing for the entire journey.
Typically, I don’t mind warm weather. I’ve done my due time in tropics, sub tropics and deserts. But Coimbra nearly ground me down.
Hopefully, Lisbon, with it’s seaside breezes will be cooler and better.
So until then,
Best regards and excellent trails,
Old Sean
Written August 5th 2018
Read more about visiting Coimbra and seeing the world by visiting Leftfade Trails Destination Advice
Affiliate Disclosure: Leftfade Trails contains affiliate links, so using services or products through these links supports the website, at no extra cost to the user. All links are to tested services and products designed to aid travelers on their journeys. Some links specifically connect to Amazon. As an Amazon Associate this website earns from qualifying purchases.
More than ten years ago, I abandoned my military surplus store backpack for a Farpoint 40 Osprey Travel Pack. I’ve never replaced my bag since. Two years ago, I bought two more Osprey Backpacks for my younger siblings on their first tour outside the country. I have nothing but praise for Osprey Products.
