“It’s daunting to consider the cost of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in modern currency and efforts,” – Old Sean
The Long Road to Nowhere
After Thor and I spent a full day enjoying our time in Seville, we woke up exceptionally early the following morning to begin driving to Granada.
As always, there are…hiccups to learn when trying to acclimate in another country. We struggled a bit when it came to understanding the gas pumps. We were mildly confused when it came to handling the endless number of multi-lane roundabouts leaving town. And we still failed to internalize that there aren’t many breakfast places open until ten in Spain.
But we eventually muddled through. The highways were pretty much devoid of traffic and the sunrise was impressive. We were able to spot some interesting landmarks on the horizon, though we didn’t stop at any. Castillo de Marchenilla, Torre la Membrilla, Torre del Cincho and Castillo de Alcalá de Guadaíra come to mind.
Roman Burial Sites of Osuna
When hunger overtook us, we stopped at the strange university town of Osuna. There, we had a relaxing chunk of time driving through impossibly narrow streets. We gradually became pleased with the tiny size of our vehicle. Anything larger would’ve been a considerable challenge.
We eventually made our way outside the city to Roman Necropolis. This is a unique burial site with various holds in the cliffs leading to tiny coffin spaces. It’s a little startling to see how narrow and short the coffins are. Those ancient Romans weren’t large people. The graves are especially unique for their placement, as they exist alongside the Royal Cattle Track of Granada Road. The Royal Cattle Track is now known as Carretera de la Cabra, or Road of the Goat, and is essentially an old mountain road that connects Granada, Spain to the Costa Tropical. While the portion we were on was more historical, portions of the road are still in use. The Carretera de la Cabra is now mostly unused and is a popular cycling route.
Following our morning looking at tombs, we stopped at a strange little diner for breakfast. I would’ve also liked to visit El Coto Las Canteras, a carved museum in the area, but we were too early and it hadn’t opened yet.
Enter the Garden Rows
Over the next few hours, we drove towards Granada. Instead of heading towards our hotel, we opted to drive straight for the main attraction of the city. The Alhambra.
It’s almost impossible to overstate how grand the Alhambra is. It combines traditional Spanish architectural elements along with Moorish designs and carvings for an utterly ostentatious series of buildings. The site was originally constructed as a small fortress in 889 AD and later expanded into a royal palace by the Nasrid Dynasty during the 13th and 14th centuries.
After the Christian Reconquista in 1492, the Alhambra underwent modifications, including Renaissance influences introduced by Charles V. This includes new buildings and church structures as well as changes to the gardens. Today, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, attracting millions of visitors annually.
Entertainingly enough, the name Alhambra derives from the Arabic al-Ḥamrāʼ (الحمراء), meaning “The Red One,” referring to the reddish hue of the fortress’s walls. The designs within cannot be praised enough. Aside from being fantastically visually overwhelming, there are also mathematical marvels tied into the designs. The intricate tile designs in the Alhambra use all 17 possible mathematical plane symmetry patterns, making it a favorite study for mathematicians and art enthusiasts alike.
Interestingly enough, the Alhambra only avoided historic destruction by a few choice moments. During his military campaign, Napoleonic troops wanted to destroy the Alhambra, during the events of the Peninsular War. His troops occupied had the site as a strategic military position and considered the Alhambra a potential threat due to its fortified nature. Thus, they intended to damage it to prevent its use by the Spanish forces against them. Under orders, soldiers planted explosives to destroy it. Thankfully, however, a soldier disarmed them, saving the structure.
There are also plenty of engineering marvels in the design of the site. The Alhambra’s many fountains and pools rely on gravity-fed hydraulic systems from the nearby Darro River, functioning with remarkable precision to this day.
Last of the Ruins
Thor and I parked a fair distance away before wandering through the gardens outer portions of the Alhambra. We got to the front gate and flashed our reservations while a trio of aggressively Americans stood in line in front of us.
“What do you mean, sold out?” one said.
“Tickets must be booked in advance,” the ticket-scanner at the gate informed them wearily. He had my profound sympathy.
Honestly, I don’t understand how people can take a trip across the Atlantic and fail to consider booking tickets in advance. Regardless, Thor and I walked over a causeway, entering a long garden area. Trimmed hedges made solid walls and pebbles scraped on the ground in front of us. Roses bloomed with startling, manicured symmetry, so large that they drooped on their stems. Calm pools of water reflected the thin layers of clouds overhead. Paths leading to buildings, such as the Convento de San Francisco, were lined by mosaic-tiled stones.
Further along, Thor and I spotted some of the more obscure buildings of the complex. The Iglesia de Santa María de la Encarnación has astonishing artworks within. Nearby, Puerta del Vino arcs overhead and provided a spare moment of shade against the midday sun. The Palace of Charles V was an emperor’s Renaissance-style residence featuring a grand courtyard. The Restos del Palacio de Yusuf III boasted water features and soothing greenery. Best of all, we got to see an extremely satisfied cat lounging around the site.
The True Palace
After some time, we finally entered the true entryway leading into the palace’s interior, where the famous Moorish designs are carved.
There are no adequate words.
The complex is layered in thousands upon thousands of Moorish-styled carvings, each more lovingly rendered and expertly restored than the last. The designs sweep the walls, the ceiling’s, the archways. There are poems inscribed and soft words swirling within geometric patterns, Kufic and Naskh scripts.
“There is no victor but Allah.”
“Look at this palace of beauty; it resembles the shimmering stars in the heavens.”
“I am a garden encompassed by beauty.”
“May eternal glory be bestowed upon our master, the Sultan.”
“The breeze brings life and refreshment through my halls.”
“This building is a paradise itself; its beauty is beyond description.”
In truth, the Alhambra is too much. It simply can’t be taken in . Portions need to be framed, a section at a time or the quality and quantity of the art around a visitor becomes a fuzz.
In this particular instance. cell phone cameras are especially helpful. They allow people to take portions of images and look at them individually, instead of being simply swept away by the overall grandeur.
The intricacy of the Alhambra, upon reflecting after departure, is bewildering. I loved seeing it. I loved walking the gardens and blinking at the art and marveling at the pools of water. But at the end, the creation exceeds the encompassment of easy mental digestion.
Getting to the balconies of the Alhambra and gazing at Granada below was a relief, a moment where a person could simply breathe and gaze.
Thor and I spent our hours wandering through that glory before returning to our car and driving towards Granada.
Hotel Halfway
Unsurprisingly, driving in Spain is…not hard exactly. But finicky. Precise. It takes a large amount of awareness and small motions to accurately navigate the roads. I was pleased when we finally arrived at our hostel for the day.
The hostel, sadly, was one of those clean-but-cramped spaced. Thor and I would be sharing a bed and the bathroom was so narrow, it was impossible to turn around to wash hands after pissing. It was a fascinatingly small room.
But I’ve never cared much about my accommodations. The more important feature, for me, is always the city itself. I spend so little time inside places, it’s hardly worth worrying over.
I was excited to explore Granada. The last time I’d visited, I’d done so by accident. An accidental detour on the wrong bus brought me to the city and my company had to bundle me back onto another vehicle to drive onwards. This time, I fully intended to explore as many corners as time would allow.
The Bazaars
We started, of course, with the various shopping streets and pedestrian walkways that curve through the city’s center. Stopping for drinks and tapas, we soon found ourselves in the district where tourists gather in small hoards. La Alcaicería, Pl. de Bib-Rambla, Pl. Romanilla, the Catedral de Granada, the Fuente de los Gigantones, Trinity Square, and the bazaars took up our afternoon.
We saw towering church buildings, wandered narrow shopping streets, browsed souvenir shops, sampled Turkish delights and slowly made our way north.
The one feature I always dread about America is the lack of walkability. I need the walkability.
Men Among the Hills
As we continued to wander through Granada, Thor and I eventually reached Carrera del Darro, an incredibly picturesque walk along a narrow cobbled street alongside the Darro River. It rests beneath the gaze of the Alhambra, making the massive structure seem even more imposing from below.
Staring up at the Alhambra, one can imagine what they’ll never understand in history. For instance, I’ll never be one of those men who looks upon those staunch walls with a spear in my hand, knowing I’m due to storm the gates. That time in history has passed. It’s unfathomable to me now.
The riverside walk took Thor and I on a long, slow loop to the nearby mountaintop of Mirador de San Nicolás. Along the way, we saw plenty of unique sights, including the famed cave-homes of the region. White-walled walkways led through narrow paths, barren hills, imposing views of the Alhambra, Sacromonte, Carmen de la Victoria and the San Nícolas Church.
Nearly Feasted
When Thor and I finally returned to the lower levels of the city, we sat in a profoundly noisy bar, munching on snacks, sampling Iberian ham and sipping down drinks. It was an excellent way to spend an evening.
Afterwards, Thor decided to retire. But I wanted to see the last few landmarks from my previous visit. In the light of sunset, I made a long, slow loop through the city, visiting all of the tiny features which had defined my last, abruptly ended trip.
I visited the tall hedges and winding jogging trails of Federico García Lorca, a sunset-tinged park. I briefly walked through the Centro Comercial Neptuno mall, before striding along the Genil Canal. I enjoyed time along the Puente Romano, the darkened Fuente de las Granadas in the Jardines del Salón, walked up the Plaza de Bibataubin, rested at the Fuente de las Batallas and finally returned back to the hotel.
Rollout
The following morning, Thor and I woke up, slightly groggy from the previous day’s efforts. We weren’t in a particular hurry that morning, as we planned to spend the entire day driving slowly towards Valencia. We settled for a light breakfast in a distant plaza before steering carefully out of the city, driving east. It was a peaceful morning.
With that in mind, I’m cheered by our visit. The Alhambra alone was worth the journey. I’m looking forward to the next leg of the trip.
Best regards and excellent trails,
Old Sean
Written October 11th 2024
Attractions in Granada
