Visiting Izmir: Greetings, My Memories

“The world, for individuals at least, is often comprised of people you meet over and over and over again.” – Old Sean

Early Days and Ways

After leaving Saudi Arabia for the Eid holiday, I found myself driving through Turkey in the early mornings of April.

I was exploring the southern part of the country, an area I’ve neglected to visit thus far in life. After leaving the town of Izmit, I took my rental car south to seek out an old friend.

My drive progressed remarkably smoothly. Turkey doesn’t have a reputation for a beautiful countryside, but it absolutely deserves one. The mountains are rugged, soothing creatures lounging in the distance. Blossoms for bright, captivating bundles over the branches of trees. Where the land slopes, sweeps of green brush towards the sky. The road itself is remarkably smooth and well-maintained, tilting easily with the land, providing endless overlooks.

The Turkish highway system is a marvel.

Fog of the Morrow

I drove south, crossing over the waters of the Sea of Marmara. Bright fog, practically glowing in the dawnlight, made a strange, smooth barrier over the water’s surface.

My journey south was dotted with several potential tourism destinations: Değirmen Boğazı Natural Park. Balikesir Clock Tower. Akhisar Museum. The Relief of Manisa. Spil Mountain National Park.

But before all of these, I opted to visit Bursa, hoping to sight a unique UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Bursa is an impressive city to drive towards. A vast range of mountains looms in  the distance, dominating the lower hills and causing the city itself to nestle low. There’s a sprawling urban space, but as one inches closer towards mountain slopes, fields appear studded with flowering trees. Small horses pick between the trunks, grazing on bright, green grasses.

The roads began to wind, leading further and further away from the highway. I wheeled between Turkish vehicles with placid ease.

Turkey’s drivers are a fairly middle-level of skill and audacity. The drivers tend to be a bit impatient and often ignore dividing lines. But they maneuver easily enough and most have no trouble merging when lanes narrow. However, Turkey is filled with multi-lane roundabouts as their main mode of traffic control, and the drivers seem to struggle with the concept.

Often, Turkish drivers will coast along the innermost portion of the circle before promptly severing three lanes of traffic to reach their desired exit point. It makes Turkey a navigable place, but with a fair amount of awareness required.

After spending time driving in India where the press of traffic seems more like a mental disease than a state of being, I was gratified to find the traffic laws were somewhat applicable. Likewise, I was happy to see generally skilled drivers after spending months groaning at the absolute lack of skill Saudi drivers generally demonstrate.

So overall, I made it to my chosen destination without death.

Cumalikizik Village

My main reason for visiting Bursa was twofold. First, I wished to briefly glance at the Inkaya Historical Plane Tree, which stands on a mountain slope, boasting over 600 years of age. But even more compelling is the Cumalikizik Heritage Village.

The village is a traditional Turkish community which has preserved much of its unique architecture. Heavily cobbled roads snake up inclines and there are numerous old-school tractors in various states of repair throughout the town. Many of the buildings are made from stacked stones, fitted beams and walls of faded primary colors, giving the entire area a whimsical feel. The backdrop of mountains lends a sense of drama. Small, bright-green weeds were tucked into cracks, making the town seem lively even whilest quiet.

I arrived quite early in the morning, ensuring I would be able to explore the town with minimal company. Many of the shops were already open, peddling an enormous range of souvenirs. May favorite where the colored pieces of fabrics and traditional vests which hung quietly on stone walls.

Best of all where the preserve shops. This is a broad terms for the syrups, oils, fermented snacks and other glass-jar culinary options lining numerous stores. I was especially fond of the blueberry syrup, which tastes absolutely heavenly when stirred into sour yogurt.

I continued to explore town until crowds and school field trips began crowding me out. At that point, I sat down for a bowl of Turkish Manti at a small eatery before hopping into my vehicle and continuing onwards.

South Drive

My main goal for the day, aside from browsing the unique heritage village, was to arrive in Izmir. The coastal city has an interesting, divergent reputation for political independence as well as a seaside-beach culture despite its heavy urban environment.

But my main reason for visiting Izmir had far less to do with tourism and far more to do with memories. Years ago, before I had gotten my first ESL Teaching Job in China, I had gotten my Level 5 TEFL Certification from an academy in Chicago. There, I made a few fast friends with several classmates. The most enduring of these friendships was with a tall, blonde man named Kevin.

We’ve corresponded off and on over the years, sharing notes on our differing travel experiences. Kevin had numerous adventures throughout Europe while he was based in Italy. And later he retold an interesting chapter of his life in Macau. Eventually, he settled in Turkey, where he’s remained for the past four years.

I drove towards Izmir, parking on the outer portions of the city. I managed to catch the metro into the urban center, where I briefly explored Kültürpark Izmir and the Egyptian Obelisk based there. Cutting through the park brought me to Kevin’s home, where we lounged around for the day, swapping numerous stories.

Tipsy Throwbacks

After catching up a reasonable amount, Kevin offered to show me around town. He walked me through the winding streets, past dogs, balcony breweries and other odd nooks. Eventually, we made it to his favorite pub, which offered an impressive arrangement of beer.

We chatted the night away easily enough, eventually turning towards the coast where we walked along the seaside, dodging the occasional cyclist. By the time midnight had arrived and left, Kevin led the way back home and offered me his spare room.

Rendered sleepy by my journey, I collapsed immediately.

Grey Sky Arise

The following morning, I awoke to chat with Kevin and enjoy a last round of coffee. My friend was off to the airport to pick up his girlfriend, after which they would take a journey south on their own beach journey.

I headed out alone as a steady drizzle struck the streets I walked. I paused briefly for a terribly unhealthy breakfast of apple cider frosty and chocolate waffles. A half-hour later, I took the metro back to where I parked my car, grateful to find out that it hadn’t been towed.

In Turkey, parking is a bit of a puzzle-game. Most places that fit a car without inhibiting traffic are considered fair-game for parking. This includes empty lots, curbs, tilted sidewalks and other creative nooks. I was just pleased that my parking space made it through the night.

Soon, I was buckled and heading forth again. My next stop will be my first true Turkish ruins, found in the city of Selçuk.

So until then,

Best regards and excellent trails,

Old Sean

Written April 6th, 2024

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