“An unfortunate, understated truth about humanity is that we generally do our best work when we’re not at our best.” – Old Sean
A Return to France
After leaving Spain, I returned to France, visiting Marseille.
Marseille is one of the oldest continuously-inhabited cities in all of Europe, originally founded by Phaeacian sailors in 600 BCE. Despite it’s ancient history and traditional buildings surrounding the bay area, most of Marseille is modern, well-structured and oftentimes restful.
It’s difficult to overstate how scenic the city is. Between an enclosed bay, a large series of historic buildings, rising nearby hills and fantastic views of the sea, the entire city is beautiful to wander from every angle.
The city has an extended heritage as a shipping and trade nexus, receiving it’s largest expansion during the 19th century industrial expansion.
This is my final stop in France before I head into Italy. As such, I took my sweet time wandering around.
A Day Visiting Marseille
The very first thing that struck me when returning to France was the sudden uptick in secondhand smoke. As I left the bus station, no less than four hopefuls asked me for a cigarette.
It’s possible the people hanging smoking like chimneys around French transport hubs have a problem. But it’s also fair to say that France is one of the most heavy-smoking European countries I’ve visited so far.
When I first arrived in the city, I had a hotel booked near the bay area. It was a fantastically large and private room with a king-sized bed. I spent the first part of my morning showing in a private bathroom and sprawling shamelessly n my bed.
Though I didn’t strike out immediately, cool ocean breezes meant I could still wander around mid-day. I finally rallied, beginning my explorations of the bay area.
Marseille is actually an enormous city, but the city-center, especially around the quaint bay area, can be walked around easily.
I started my wanderings by passing the Cathédrale La Major, a huge neo-Byzantine cathedral with stone-stripes, interior mosaics and fantastic murals surrounded by marble. The immensely naturalistic statues and artworks inside and around the Cathedral are worth noting, with delicate folds of fabric worked into still stone.
After my brief visit to the Cathedral (which was brief, since I’m a little tired of visiting European churches at this point), I wandered closer to the bay. A small white-and-blue train (Les Petits Trains de Marseille) was giving rides to children around the shoreline, while an uncountable number of small, white-hulled boats tilted sparingly on the water.
Up and Around the Bay
The enclosed, historic bay of Marseille is called Vieux Port, or Old Port. It was once the central trading hub for those visiting Marseille in ancient times, though the area around Les Terrasses du Port handles most of the much-larger shipping vessels of the modern era.
I ended up burning most of my Marseille hours around Vieux Port. There are dozens of sights, attractions and activities here. I climbed the 17th-century tan-stone walls of Fort Saint-Jean, peering into the bay below. Then, I walked over a sky-route to Mucem – Museum of Civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean. This museum, which showcases European civilizations and their links through the Mediterranean, is an alien-looking building. Vast walls are covered in odd, wavy patterns which shadow light in unexpected combinations.
Eventually, after spending more time walking along the shores and peering into the sea, I walked slightly inland to seek out Port Antique. This small public park flooded with green grass also hosts the remaining ruins of Roman road & Greek walls, which once surrounded the port. The ruins were quite close to the impressive Marseille History Museum, which contained further Roman ruins and educational artifacts.
I stopped briefly at a store to buy apples for lunch, since I’m still in a state of poverty. At the time of this writing, my company still hasn’t paid me and I’m still spending money sparingly.
My last stop near the water was The Marseille Soap Museum on the south-side of the bay. However, there was already a large tourist group snaking their way inside. I opted to avoid the crowd, passed by the imposing walls of Abbaye Saint-Victor and turned myself upward.
Marseille on a Hill
One of the most dominating features of Marseille is Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde. The large Basilica with a striped bell-tower holding up a golden statue can see from virtually anywhere in the city.
I happily made the Basilica my goal, and started doggedly climbing steep backroads, slowly working my way up. I paused breifly for views over the lower city at Parc Pierre Puget and also made a stop to see a tank.
Located behind a series of white-painted metal fences, Le char Jeanne d’Arc is a Sherman tank which took part in the Liberation of Marseille by General de Montsabert in 1944. The tank suffered some damage during its ascent to Notre-Dame de la Garde and was eventually preserved in the area to honor the successful liberators. The tank isn’t in the best stopping area, so parking is scarce and it’s easier to walk to it than drive.
I eventually made it to Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde, though the roads in Marseille aren’t the most navigable. Especially around the bay and hills, it seems like many of the routes developed organically, meaning I took quite a few wrong turns on my hike.
The views were worth it, however. Marseille is a phenomenal city to overlook.
To the Urban Lowlands
Following my climb, I decided to head back toward the lower portion of the city, happy to avoid any more steep hills for the upcoming hours.
I eventually wandered down various, long, straight roads, working hard to stay in the shadows of buildings. I was trying to reach Palais Longchamp, a fountain-monument which houses twin, highly beloved museums: The Musée des beaux-arts and Muséum d’histoire naturelle de Marseille.
Rearing bulls dance over small waterfalls with other pales statues around the structure. Views of pooling water and large parks surround the ornate museums.
The entire structure is backed up to Parc Longchamp, also known as the Zoological Gardens of Marseille. After spending a little time in the museum and conducting an interview for work, I spent some time walking freely in the park.
Much of the park is green, shady and beautiful. But my favorite part was a small attraction known as the “Funny Zoo Marseille.” The Funny Zoo Marseille is an old, semi-abandoned zoo filled with Victorian-styled animal cages, far too small to be considered humane in the modern era.
Fortunately, these cages aren’t filled with bored animals. instead, they’re staffed with plastic, brightly-colored animal statues, giving an idea of what the zoos might have looked like in the 19th-century. Provided most animals were perfectly still and gaudy.
Sadly, the Funny Zoo Marseille isn’t well-maintained. Much of it is run-down and dirt has scuffed many of the statues. Regardless, I thought it was a novel place to visit and decidedly enjoyed my walkthrough.
Last Moments Visiting Marseille
Once I returned from the Longchamp area, I had nearly used up all my remaining time in the city.
I ended up spending the rest of my evening wandering around Le Panier Marseillais, a quaint historic district filled with cobblestoned streets, bright buildings, narrow walkways and artisans’ shops.
Near the end of my walk, I tried to visit La Vieille Charité, a cinema-and-art museum, but the gates had already shuttered by the time I arrived.
I started heading back to my hotel, bemoaning my current lack of funds. I had spotted quite a few restaurants I would’ve adored, but instead, it was another day of cereal and cost-saving fruit.
I’ve been assured I’m getting paid tomorrow, so I eagerly await the restoration of travel funds. For now, my time visiting Marseille is finished.
I’m currently indulging myself in my private hotel room by writing while my limbs are spread to all corners of my bed. After so many hostels, shared bathrooms and communal living spaces in the last two months, this seems like an almost-undeserved luxery.
Regardless, tomorrow morning I head to yet another new nation. This will be my first-ever visit to Italy. I studied Roman History in University, so this next segment of my journey will be of profound personal interest.
Until then,
Best regards and excellent trails,
Old Sean
Written August 13th, 2018
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I picked up my yoga mat three years ago during a trip to Mexico. The Jade Travel Yoga Mat is light enough to roll up and attach it to the outside of my bag. It now doubles as my workout mat and a sleeping mat when I need to rest somewhere odd.
