“I have a poor habit of fostering envy regarding historical figures and the lives they lived.” – Old Sean
Burnout Horizon
As I finally left Takamatsu, I was ready to begin a slow, wind-down victory-lap in the relatively small city of Matsuyama.
I’ve been pushing for hard, almost-constantly traveling for my remaining time in Japan. There’s so much to do and see in the nation.
Even slowly whittling down the features list still gradually results in burnout. I was braced for this prior to the beginning of my trip, so I handled the influx of activities fairly well and hit most of my major item itineraries.
That being said, I knew I would appreciate a slower pace on the last few days in the country. I had originally planned to head to Sapporo to immerse myself in the snow and ice festival, but housing was scare and I was sick of the cold.
Plus, the huge crowds of people, including many Chinese currently on holiday, made me leery of the entire prospect when considering the coronavirus.
It hasn’t been so much a conscious decision, but I’ve decided to forgo places with heavy population density while people are still so worried about the virus. On top of that, I’ve already been to the famed Harbin Ice Festival. I didn’t think this would be a new, diverse experience for me.
Visiting Matsuyama
So overall, I was looking for something quieter and selected Matsuyama.
Not that Matsuyama is quiet, per se. It’s a large city and municipality with a vibrant shopping scene and lots of interesting icons scattered about. But it’s nowhere near the same bustle and cost of a place like Osaka or Tokyo.
The hostel I attended was super nice, known as Guesthouse Miso Soup. It’s very communal with lots of music on traditional Chinese and tempura instruments. It’s also home to a very cozy kotatsu. (A kotatsu is a low table attached to a heavy blanket. Underneath is usually a lowered bit of floor to place a person’s legs and a heat source).
Unfortunately, the majority of the guesthouse isn’t heated, meaning I was trapped each and every morning underneath my warm blankets, unwilling to summon the energy to throw them off, venting my accumulated body heat.
But I did get up. Eventually.
A Sidestreet Tour
I spent my first day in Matsuyama wandering the city and getting the larger tourist contraptions out of the way.
First, I visited the covered shopping streets that are so beloved by Japan and rode the cheap tram throughout the city. I managed to find the truly delightful Dogo Onsen on the far east of the city, which is a popular tourist spot that includes a nightly light show foretelling the story of the hot springs.
I also managed to hike onwards and upwards through Dogo Park, hoping to see Yuzuki Castle Ruins. Sadly, the ruins are not visible to the best of my knowledge, though there are numerous plaques discussing features discovered, such as an iron forge which crafted nails and a hefty stone faucet that pumped out hot spring water, though the flow is now directed to Dogo Onsen.
The view atop the park’s carved up mountain is nice enough to see the entire city, but nothing to write home about.
Afterwards, I found a nice little pizza place known as Positano Restaurant, which I thought was pretty splendid. Their fruit-and-berry cheesecake did wonders to win me over. Later on, I started checking out the Dogoyunomachi shopping area before angling downtown towards Matsuyama Castle.
The Citrus Mansion
More interesting than the castle, in my opinion, is Bansuiso, a fully French-style chateau located in a fantastic garden space near the base of the green-space hill.
I fully intended to wander over and take a picture before heading home, but the director of the building came outside into the brisk chill when he saw me arrive, and directed me to a corner spot which was supposedly the best angle for pictures of the beautiful structure.
Afterwards, he regaled me with numerous tales regarding the history of Bansuiso.
The architect and original owner, Count Sadakoto Hisamatsu, was a fantastic military man of Japanese-feudal-lord descent who spent fifteen non-consecutive years of his life living in France. The man lived apparently, and stories bubbled forth. Stories of the Russian-Sino war, tales of a pre-WWII spy operating in European territories, tales of the following occupation, which resulted in several crystals being stolen from the grand chandelier inside. There was also a tale regarding a particularly impressive set of stained glass windows and a mirror from Belgium which hasn’t warped in nearly a century.
However, among the main impacts of this Count Hisamatsu (and his son who was eventually elected governor) involved oranges.
Apparently, Matsuyama has a compelling focus on the citrus fruit, having imported it and cultivating numerous shades and flavors. There are entire stores dedicated to the citrus treats regardless of the season.
Additionally, Count Hisamatsu’s son is credited with coming up with the word “Pomology,” which is the study of fruit cultivation. (Of this, I’m not entirely sure, but it’s a nice and interesting thought. When I was studying botany, I was given the impression that “pom” was a distinctly Latin root, but that sort of linguist history isn’t really my area of study).
Clockwork Sidetrack
Anyway, following my enlightening visit to Bansuiso, I ended up checking out the enormous Okaido shopping allies for a couple hours, window shopping to my heart’s content.
Afterwards, I returned to my hostel, just in time to see the Botchan Karakuri Clock come to life. Normally a red, glowing structure near the Dogoyunomachi entrance, this clock transforms on the hour. Mechanical puppets fold out, the clock face spins round, and the entire structure expands from two to four stories as traditional music plays.
I was aware the clock had some interesting properties, but seeing it grow like a curious sunflower was an unexpected treat.
Anyway, following my little jaunt through the city, I went to the Dogo Brewery, determined to try the chicken meatballs and some of their famous craft beer (both excellent). Also, infused with my new knowledge of Matsuyama’s citrus orange heritage, I stopped for some orange sherbet gelato-like food at a legitimate orange shop found in Dogoyunomachi.
Nightmunch
Finally, I wandered home, determined to at least pretend that my time “off” in Matsuyama was relaxing.
But… ah, no.
Back at the hostel, the guesthouse owner invited me out to a small music event happening at a friend’s bar. Charmed, I joined her at a place called Wani To Sai, easily identifiable by the bathroom door used out front, complete with a metal hand reaching out from where the doorknob should be.
Inside, I met the charcoal cat “Sumi” downed a considerable amount of sake fulfilling an impromptu promise I had made to my friend Ben back in the states and munched on a sinful amount of kimchi.
So, as far as relaxing, low key off days go, I dramatically failed.
As such, I swore to myself that the following day I would go to a more obscure and smaller town and just… chill.
When I finally returned home, I planned to allow myself time to sleep in before visiting the village of Uchiko.
Until I reach the countryside,
Best regards and excellent trails,
Old Sean
Written February 5th, 2020
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