Visiting Nara: Formally, My Dear

There are few cultures in the world as distinct and oft-sought as the woven society and peoples of Japan.” – Old Sean

Island Hopping

After spending a week in Bali attending my friend’s wedding, I caught a plane to Japan to enjoy the rest of my Chinese Spring Festival break.

It was a long, rigorous flight from Bali to Osaka, Japan.  My layover was in Manila, Philippians, and circumstances were unkind to me.

My layover dropped me at a redirected terminal, meaning I somehow had to get to Terminal One from my landing point.  Unfortunately, none of the free shuttle busses were operating until much later that morning, nearly the very minute my flight took off. 

As such, I was forced to go to an exchange and swap some Indonesian rupiahs for Philippian currency. Then I had to seek out a taxi which would take me for the small amount, as the bus services were jam packed.

Upon getting to the correct terminal, I stood in the check-in line for two hours, an unfortunate aspect of the entire airport being clogged due to a nearby volcanic eruption.  Power briefly went out twice, and I only managed to make it to my gate with about eight minutes to spare.

Sought Among Nations

In Japan, things became markedly easier.  I landed in Osaka, where I would be lodging for the next week.  I’d like to point out that I did a many things in Osaka.  However, because I kept using my JR pass (Japanese Rail Pass) to exit and reenter the city, I’ll talk about Osaka events exclusively in a separate post.  It should cut down on the monotony of me describing trips back and forth.

As such, my first trip within Japan was to the famous city of Nara, well-known for the herds of semi-tamed deer milling about the land.

Nara is a nice little city with the usual array of cleanliness and endless street-side vending machines that hallmark Japanese society.  Trains clatter by on a perfect schedule and the buildings, though numerous and narrow, are spaced in such a way that the city never feels claustrophobic or crowded.

However, the truly compelling aspects of Nara are the series of parks and temples on the east side of town.  These grounds host many deer that are friendly with strangers and mill about freely.  Snack stands exist nearly everywhere, offering crackers to tourists for 200 yen, so the trotting little creatures (only about sternum high) can nose over for plenty of photos.

The coolest part about the deer population is the bowing.  If you can get one by itself, you can bow to it (deeply at the waist) and it’ll bow right back.  (I’m convinced this is due to the deer thinking you dropped food and checking the ground for some as well, but still, cute effect.)

Overall, the deer are very chill, and though they’re not interested if you don’t have food, some of them nuzzle up for a bit of petting.  They proliferate everywhere in this section of the city, herding around parks, trotting across flat expanses and working their way into the steep hills and mountains that hem in the city.

A Land of Temples

Anyway, I made a point of walking around quite a bit.  Starting at the station I hopped off at, I got a remarkably healthy breakfast at a café before walking all the way across town to where the parks began. 

Then, I wound my way from the open parks where tourists tittered and snapped endless photos to a bit higher, where thick trees with a crushing network of raised roots began to arc.  I made my way to Ukimido Hall first, mostly to see the lakes and slight overlook.  Then I continued walking through the green space, gradually working my way uphill until I passed the Nara National Museum and Buddhist Art Library.

Here, tourists practically hemmed me in.  Chinese visitors made loud whooping sounds as deer nibbled crackers free from their hands.  Often, children and young ladies would run away as the deer drew near, causing them to traipse behind, making a soft sniffing noise for a handout.

I shouldered through the crowds, heading higher until I reached the Kasuga Taisha Temple.  This is a very beautiful temple, and it’s also where all the crowds seem to taper off.  The walkway up is lined on either side by ornate stone shrines: Uniquely carved pillars with hollowed-lamp-like interiors that supposedly house offerings.  Deer weave between this stone forest and a thick coating of vibrant green most roosts on the tops.  Despite the grass and trees far below being bare, the slightly wild woods up here are a fertile green.

Impressions of Nara

There are a lot of strong smells in Nara.  The lowlands with the deer smell distinctly like a petting zoo.  Closer to some of the tourist areas, the air smells like fuel and exhaust.  Along the numerous small shops wafts the scent of cooking noodles and other fortifying foods.  And near the tops of the stone trail mountains, where few people walk, it smells earthy and fresh. 

Pushing forward to the shrines and temples further up is well worth it, and the deer are still present to keep any wanderers company.

Hiking-bug sated, I ended up moving back to the lowlands and doing a quick visit of Todai-ji, another large, impressive Buddhist structure.  I made a point not to visit too many temples during this trip.  I plan on visiting Kyoto, Japan’s spiritual capital, in two days, so I don’t want to overdo religious icons right out of the gate.

Regardless, Nara was a lovely visit.  I ended up taking a couple more laps around town before clambering back aboard a train to head home.  Unfortunately, I had to spend about five dollars both directions since my JR pass didn’t cover the trip, but that and food were my only expenses.

Once I was back in Osaka, I nestled back into my hostel and prepared for the next day. I plan on visiting Kobe and the coast, so I’m looking forward to views of the sea.

So until then,

Best regards and excellent trails,

Old Sean

Written January 19th 2020

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