“There’s nothing like a journey home after months abroad. It’s a relief. It can’t get finished fast enough. It’s the clearly marked ending of another chapter in life, one segmented by deed and place more than time and tradition.” – Old Sean
Farewell, Desertlands
After ten months of living in the Middle East, I’m finally departing. Today, I have in my hand a ticket which returns me to the United States of America, where I intend to simply sleep for a few days.
My time in Saudi Arabia has been consistently strange. But I’m not quite out of the region yet. Before returning home, I had a 12 hour layover in Qatar.
Landing in Qatar
Qatar is among the richest income per citizen nations in Earth, a tiny country in the Persian/Arabian Gulf which shares a land border with Saudi Arabia. The tiny, supremely wealthy nation gained quite a bit of international attention (some positive, some negative) during the World Cup a few years ago.
The results of hosting an international crowd are apparent even before arrival. Qatar has a stellar advertisement team and they know exactly how to showcase their country on a series of ads while flying in.
In most regards, a lot of the regional and geography based tourism in the Middle East shares similarities. There are always chances to see camels, camp in deserts, go dune bashing, drift in the sea, try out paragliding, visit nearby islands and reefs, shop at souqs and markets and, on the east coast, learn about the lucrative histories of oil and pearl diving.
From a practical outdoor activity standpoint, Qatar shouldn’t stand out from Bahrain, Abu Dhabi, Jeddah, Kuwait or Oman. But they have such a robust advertising system, the country has an advantage in the tourism industry.
Even before landing, I was greeted by stunning images of diverse foreigners traveling the Inland Sea, swimming in clear oceans, dining in upscale restaurants and listening to stories around a Bedouin campfire. While both Saudi Arabia and Qatar and fundamentally Islamic nations, Saudi Arabia always elevates its connection to Islam in tourism thanks to the massive influx of Muslims who arrive during Hajj. However, Qatar’s tourism targets and economic functions are a wider spread of internationals, so they tailor their ads to accommodate more general activities.
Regardless, once I landed, I already had a pretty good idea about what I wanted to do for my extended layover. Sadly, customs turned into a real hassle due to slow questioning. But once I was free, I called an Uber on my phone to make the easy trip into town.
Metro Mull
Unfortunately, Uber at the Doha Airport is blocked. New rules have been put in place to give the Metro and Taxis a fighting chance.
I tend to hate when countries take steps to limit independent transportation at their access points. The attempt to make visitors reliant on local modes of transit grates against me, especially when taxis are involved. I loathe taxis with an undying passion and would never willingly use one. while other options are available.
Devoid of other options, I made the 15 minute walk to the metro where I bought my overpriced ticket and waited another 11 minutes for a train. Overall, my 14 minute Uber ride into Doha turned into a 53 minute ordeal.
A Range of Museums
When I first stepped off the Metro, I was rather pleased. Qatar has an absolutely immense migrant worker population. They outnumber natives by a wide margin. To facilitate this transitory group, the public transit system isn’t just efficient, it’s also quite clean and artistic.
I snapped several photos while walking around before trying to visit the nearby museums near the metro.
Since it was already 5 PM, I wouldn’t have much time before such venues started shutting down. But I managed a speedy visit of Bin Jelmood House – Msheireb Museums, the Msheireb Museums, the Radwani House and the Souq Waqif Falcon Hospital.
I should mention that I wasn’t simply frolicking lightly at this time. I had the full weight of all my earthly possessions with me. My large backpack and laptop carrier case were my contact companions. It limited how swiftly I could explore the city and I wasn’t about to lug 80 pounds of luggage into an upscale restaurant.
But with museums sighted and a beautiful sunset coloring the horizon, I made my way to the famed Waqif Souqs.
The Meandering Souqs
One of my favorite things in the Middle East and in the world in general are the distinct architectural styles of a country’s culture.
In the Middle East, this involves many winding narrow pathways underneath baked mud structures with twisting pillars of wood supporting from within.
However, rich countries like Saudi Arabia, Bahrain and Qatar tend to invest far more heavily in eye catching modern skylines, usually with distinct, gravity defying shapes.
While I never personally understood the appeal of these building above all others, an architect friend of mine set me straight. Apparently, these skyscrapers shouldn’t be considered heritage or style as much as monetary investment. More office space and distinctiveness makes the building inherited more profitable to the owner. Technically speaking, the post modern aesthetic is among the most valuable and architectural communities tend to approve of this, since it allows them to work with innovative styles and materials, cementing their names in history books for human development.
This is all well and good. But I still prefer my authentically pleasing traditional neighborhoods.
Which is why the Souq was so nice. While the area is certainly a historic recreation rather than a purely preserved district, the appeal is undeniable.
Streets wind unexpectedly, artists work on quiet shops making traditional calligraphy and paintings. There are plenty of stores selling practical items like water kettles, children’s toys, hardware tools and shoes. Further along are the tourist trap shops with flashy fabrics and overtly welcoming shopkeepers.
The landmarks are fairly prolific as well. A giant golden thumb, Le Pouce, glitters distinctively. Abdullah Bin Jassim Street hosts a steady flow of cars near a wide plaza. A historic mosque with a spiral ramp manet glows softly with lights as twilight approaches. The pearl monument overlooks the modern skyline from a park.
If there’s one thing that Qatar does better than all other Arabic countries, it’s parks. They’ve set aside large tracts of sustainable green space allowing guests and locals alike to relax quite freely.
The odd thing about this country, upon wandering around, is the distinct lack of Qatari people.
Practically everyone I saw or spoke to was an immigrant. Cuban hostesses, Indian salesmen, Arabic tourists, European chefs, Yemeni servers, Egyptian taxi drivers, Bhutan ice cream shop employees, Ethiopian museum guards, Kuwait tour guides and one wandering Canadian were all I met.
But no Qatari people.
This isn’t actually a unique feature of the county. In Dubai, I also failed to meet a single Emirati for days until my friend took me to a traditional restaurant far from the tourism sectors.
It must be strange to be so dramatically outnumbered in one’s native country.
Panorama Modern
After my time around the Souq and walking slowly across Corniche Walkway Park, I trudged over to a curb and hailed an Uber.
Within seconds, I was picked up and whisked away. The modern skyline flashed my on my right, traditional boats decked out on lights floating along the nearby shore.
I saw numerous artworks and standing flags and parks. The oddest sight was a slightly dust touched “Ghost of FIFA.”
When Qatar hosted the World Cup, they created a rather notorious mascot, a white clothe cartoon with eyes and a disarming smile. Supposedly the mascot’s name is Laʼeeb (meaning “super skilled player” and he represented the popular men’s headdress known as a keffiyeh, used in many parts of the Arab world.
Odd how going somewhere entirely new can provide a snippet of nostalgia.
It Takes a Village
Once I hopped out of my car, I arrived at the park that supposedly hosts the Doha Lights, but they stayed off for the duration of my visit. I did get to see the umbrella tunnel and various sculptures though, which was nice as well.
However, I didn’t loiter around this area for long. While it was peaceful and I enjoyed watching the sea, I wanted to see another few features of the country before my time was up. As such, I quickly caught another Uber heading to the Katara Cultural Village.
The heritage area, recently constructed, is actually quite nice. There are plenty of modern artwork pieces including glass sculptures and murals. One of the things the Qatari people have adopted are actual images and paintings of humans and animals, something lacking throughout Saudi Arabia. The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia interprets the religious laws against Idolatry more strictly, so images and paintings of humans are rare. However, Qatar seems to have a different opinion, so less abstract artwork is far more present.
My favorite pieces of artwork included several light fountains, a series of giant metal busts with different types of masks, a mural depicting birds and short pillars of glowing glass artworks between expensive cafes. I also appreciated the rather bold white-stone design of the Katara Multi-Purpose Hall, the skyline views at the Katara Beach, the ornate tower at the The Golden Masjid and the elaborate patterns on the outside of the Katara Mosque. The uniquely rounded Pigeon Towers recreated at the site were also a welcome and interesting feature.
Overall, Katara Village is overtly expensive. But there’s enough publicly available artwork and sites to make visiting worthy, even if one doesn’t intend to spend money.
Once my eyes were full, I fortified myself with an overpriced ice cream and continued back into the city.
Drive By Landmarks
By this point, I felt my eyes fluttering shut while seated in my Uber. This trip, while short, had been a tremendous drain. I had only been informed of my departure time a mere day before my flight. While I hadn’t exactly rushed to pack, my inner-peace was a bit wobbly due to the rapid changes of my day-to-day. Furthermore, I had been carrying my full luggage with me wherever I went.
I decided that my next stop in Qatar would be my last. I peered out the window, sighting several strange attractions like the Dadu Gardens and the 5th June Arch which symbolizes the country’s resilience. The arches were constructed during the 2017 Qatar blockade, which granted them their cultural meaning.
Hogwarts and Hamburger
I decided to stop for dinner at a unique little shop close to the airport. I opted to visit the themed restaurant Hogwarts.
This is a family-friendly restaurant with plenty of props honoring the Harry Potter books and movies.
Located within walking distance of the National Museum of Qatar, Hogwarts is at a convenient location within a few minutes of the airport or a ten minute drive to Souq Waqif.
The restaurant itself had an assortment of food options with Harry Potter themed beverages and dishes sprinkled in. The most famous and highly recommended is the butterbeer. But even items like the chicken sandwiches come with decorations to make them more thematically aligned with Harry Potter.
While the restaurant is small, it has a number of entertaining props. There is a recreated cupboard under the stairs, numerous portraits from the movie, walls with lists of spells, and a chest on the second story full of board games for guests, including chess and checkers.
The restaurant’s main source of entertainment is the lovely staff. They are engaging, polite, helpful, friendly, and offer great service. They offer electric candles that can be “magically” turned on, cauldrons billowing steam, and they take orders with broomstick pens. Best of all, if there are small children dining, there’s a chance staff members will provide wands so kids can assist in a series of dinnertime magic tricks.
Overall, I thought this was a lovely and caring eatery with a dedicated staff, all of whom deserve considerable praise. It was a last-minute discovery on my way to the airport, and I couldn’t have been more entertained by Hogwarts’ efforts.
There isn’t very much street parking during dinner hours, so expect to park around one of the corners or ride share to the location.
The Desert Rose
One of the most fascinating aspects of Qatar’s architecture is their vaunted National Museum.
The Qatar National Museum stands as a unique piece of architecture for the region. Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, this architectural masterpiece blends modernity with tradition, with its striking geometric form and intricate patterns inspired by the desert rose.
Nestled on the Doha Corniche, overlooking the sparkling waters of the Arabian Gulf, the museum holds displays on the history, art, and culture of Qatar and the Arabian Peninsula.
Additionally, it has a collection of artifacts, multimedia displays, and hands-on activities. Overall, the Qatar National Museum celebrates the nation’s heritage.
When I visited the museum, it was closed. But the wonderful security workers there offered to take pictures of the interior of the museum on my phone while I walked around admiring the architecture.
Once I finished my time in the museum, it was time to head back to the airport. I summoned my final Uber and returned to the Doha International Airport.
Airport Gardens
I didn’t mind finishing up my time at the Doha airport. There is a large green space called The Orchard which is supremely relaxing. Additionally, I had a nice time at a few small cafes.
Security in the airport wasn’t an issue. But security getting onto an American-bound airplane was an utter nightmare with several layers and unclear instructions.
It was good to be almost home.
Crybaby Flybaby
The flight home was, sadly, filled with crying infants. Despite my best efforts to find sleep, frequent baby-sobs caused rest to elude. me. Though I was given a seat with a broken TV originally, I was offered another seat right as the plane took off.
That sums up my time in Doha. I’m now leaving the Middle East to return to the United States in a state of minor sleep deprivation.
But all that being said, I’m excited to be home. Working in Saudi Arabia was extremely wearying. The work culture values there are so different, I had trouble coexisting with the general corporate culture.
Dorothy, as always, had it right. There’s no place like home.
I’ll land in Dallas soon.
Until then,
Best regards and excellent trails,
Old Sean
Written May 5th, 2024
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