Visiting Rome: Autumn Pangs

“Day 9: No matter where I turn, all these dang roads keep leading back to Rome,” – Old Sean

He Who Knows Footfalls

Less than a week after returning and falling in love with the city again, I’ve returned to Rome. To fall in love with the city again.

After a swift tour to the south visiting Naples, Pompeii, Portici, Herculaneum and Sorrento, I’m back in the Eternal City. However, this would prove to be a short visit. After waking up in Portici, I caught an early morning train to Naples. There, I sought out a shoe shop to pick up a gift for one of my friends. Then, I loaded myself onto a bus, snoozing in my seat as I went.

When I finally returned to Rome, it was around one in the afternoon. I was due to fly out of the city at eleven that night.

Armed with a pair of phones which positively marked down the proper time in Rome, I decided to do one last loop of the city.

Breath of Parks

I had a couple of destinations in mind before I set out. Firstly, during my last time in Rome, I primarily visited the center and southern part of the city, with a night also spent around the Vatican. This time, I wanted to loop through the northern parks.

Additionally, a friend from the states reached out with an odd request. She once lived in Rome during a hectic portion of her life. Specifically, her apartment was close to the Spanish Steps. In a request I found charming, she asked me to pass by the area and take photos of her old street, for nostalgic bookend purposes. While she stressed that I only needed to do this if it was convenient, I was tickled by the request and agreed.

I took the metro away from the bus station, deciding to start my route near Porta Pinciana, which would allow me to wander Villa Borghese. From here, I would gradually veer towards the Spanish Steps.

But initially, my pace was slow. I stopped to look at the Temple of Diana, Fonte Gaia, the lake near Tempio di Esculapio and Arco Romano – Arco di Settimio Severo. It was a nice walk filled with old statues, quiet bike riders, sunset light split by trees and plenty of hopeful ducks, eyeing my pockets as potential bread fountains

The Olden Route Again

After wandering Villa Borghese, I started walking towards a more urban area.

Much to my amuseument, I’ve walked this exact route before, five years earlier. That doesn’t make my strides unique or anything; thousands of people trace regular routes through Rome daily. But I appreciated the passive nostalgia as I followed the exact route of my youth.

I stopped briefly at the Museo Leonardo da Vinci with his impressive drawings and fiendishly delicate-looking wooden prototypes. Afterwards, I ambled through Piazza del Popolo.

Once again, a decade of traveling caused me to forget I was wearing a backpack. I got some odd glances from black-dressed store attendants while walking down this notorious shopping avenue. Admittedly, I was looking powerfully scruffy in my unwashed attire and battered bag. There’s something about passing a shop with a giant, diamond-encrusted skull wearing two layers of dust that I find endlessly amusing.

But Via del Babuino is lovely to walk down as always, and I lost myself in the steady scuff of boots on pavement.

Delight of Ugly

Rome has an excellent history with statues. And I mean that in a variety of ways.

For example, the city is the birthplace and home to some of the greatest carved masterworks in the world. There are dynamic poses with details that are almost impossible to imagine carving, kept in pristine condition throughout the city.

But there are also pockets of humor. For instance, numerous statues within the Vatican City museum have had their penises removed and replaced with a fig leaves. Conservative religious leaders had the features removed for the sake of modesty. But on some occassions, the penises, which were preserved, were recovered and carefully matched to their original statue before being reattatched.

That’s objectively hilarious.

Another point of humor regarding statues of Rome (and there are many, many ticklish facts in history) regards Fontana del Babuino, which show the mythical Silenus, a half man, half goat. This statue was ridiculed by the people of Rome, who christened the figure “babuino” because it was considered ugly and deformed, similar to a baboon. Fontana del Babuino was moved several times through the city before returning to his original street in the 1950s.

This is especially interesting because Fontana del Babuino is one of the so-called “Talking Statues” of Rome. These statues, and there are several, often host Pasquinades. Pasquinades are irreverent satirical markings or writings which poke fun at public figures. These were often errected or graffitied beside Fontana del Babuino, though not on the statue itself.

I stopped by the small fountain, half-hoping to spot more pasquinades. But the statue alone was enough to entertain me.

A Favor of Photos

Finally, I reached the apex of my side-along mission. Dodging past an enormous crowd in front of the DIOR shop at Piazza di Spagna, I reached the Spanish Steps. As always, the steps are an extremely picturesque area with sizeable crowds milling about. There are many famous historical features and unique stories surrounding the steps. However, I know them best from Roman Holiday, where Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck enjoy an ice cream in front of the attraction.

I’m unsure why I remember this. I’ve only seen Roman Holiday twice, but the mental image has always stuck with me.

Regardless, I walked up the Spanish Steps, taking dozens of photos with every few strides. The sun had sunken low and swaths of Rome were bathed in gilded light. I spent another few moments enjoying the Sallustiano Obelisk and Trinità dei Monti before following the elevated roads back north.

As the sun sank, I wanted to buffer my time to the airport as much as possible. I’ve had a lot of bad experiences trying to reach Rome’s airports and public terminals, so I wanted as much wiggle room as possible.

I deemed my mini-visit just about finished and followed Viale Gabriele D’Annunzio back to the metro station. As an aside, this decedent high road, which overlooks much of the city, is an absolute treasure to walk along during the westerly sunset.

A Second-to-Last Feast

Before heading back into the various city-exit terminals, I needed to borrow some WIFI to fully understand the best way to the airport. I decided to combine this with dinner plans.

I enjoyed my Roman-city meal at Ristorante Pizzeria Popolo Caffè. As always, the Italian culinary world absolutely failed to disappoint. A plate of pasta, a pair of deserts, a robust, rich cafe drink and a sparkling water later, I was sated.

I know that I travel fairly fast. Sometimes, with friends and family, I push too hard and they burn out while I chug along. But there’s something immensely satisfying knowing how much experience a person can fit into a high point of life.

I felt like I’d done as much as I possibly could’ve during my vacation to Italy. I was content, laden with pasta-belly, tickled by carbonated water and in a state of resounding peace.

That’s a mentality I can go home with.

Struck Again, Strike Again

I made it to the Termini station an hour later. Once I arrived, I informed the staff of my desire to make it to Aeroporto di Roma-Fiumicino for my flight. I was given my ticket for fourteen Euros and directed to platform 24.

But once again, strikes struck. Earlier during my trip, I had been stalled when leaving Pompeii do to railway strikes. And now, another series of strikes effectively stranded me in a city with a timer ticking down.

Ah…Europe.

However, this is why I generally put in an exceptional amount of buffer time when traveling through Europe. I kept asking around until I found a series of university students who were in the same situation as me. They had already rented and Uber van and I was granted a seat, ensuring I made it to the airport with hours to spare.

Once at the airport, I breezed through security with my tiny backpack and settled in for a late, relaxing dinner. This was more to charge my phone than eat, but it was still a nice after-meal.

Don’t Weep for my Sleep

That finally, finally, sums up all my time spent in Italy. Over a week ago, I arrived and did much as my body could manage. From Rome to the Appian Way to the Vatican to Naples to Portici to Pompeii to Herculaneum to Sorrento and back to Rome.

It’s enough. However, I’m admittedly a bit ragged. I pushed myself somewhat and sacrificed sleep on occasion.

But even now, I’m not done. My connecting flight grants me over 14 hours in Budapest, where I’ll be able to enjoy the city during its witching hours. Part of me is tempted to rest at the airport. But the rest of me is excited to walk a silent Danube shore and gaze at the city’s monuments and artworks in darkness.

So off I wing, to a long, dark layover in Budapest.

There’s energy left in my soul. I suspect there’s time for another walk.

Until then,

Best regards and excellent trails,

Old Sean

Written December 2nd, 2023

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