“Give me an eon in Rome and I’ll have finished exploring perhaps three blocks to satisfaction.” – Old Sean
Visiting the Enteral City
Finally, after years of wishing I could see the Eternal City in person, I’ve arrived in Rome.
My time visiting Rome was beyond anything I could’ve hoped for. I spent five days spazzing out over obscure corners and names I recognized from a Roman history classes. It was five days of practically skipping down cobbled streets, squawking enthusiastically at icons as recognizable as the sky. And it was five days of murmuring a steady stream of half-recalled tidbits of history that caused fellow tourists to wearily edge away from me.
Ah, Rome.
A Man Among Rome
Every day I was in the city, an enormous rain cloud would swoop in during the afternoon. I’ll hand it to Roman tourists, they’re a hardy bunch. Instead of scurrying for cover and leaving the slick streets to myself, legions of travelers continued their damp explorations, unwilling to depart from their tours.
I continued marching alongside them. A daily downpour wouldn’t pull me away from walking the city.
When people are visiting Rome, there are two major categories of attractions. The first are the true icons of the region, buildings and structures synonymous with human history. The second involves endless hidden corners, every rock boasting at least several hundred years of history.
First Sights Visiting Rome
On the “impossible-to-bypass” portion of the spectrum, I stayed thoughouly engaged. One of the first things I visited was Campo de Fiori. Translated as the “Field of Flowers” this large plaza was crammed with morning markets, large crowds of locals purchasing daily groceries.
The plaza has a more morbid history as well. it was once the site of a heretic burning. Dominican friar Giordano Bruno from the 16th-century loudly proclaimed the universe was endless and contained infinite worlds. He believe that many of these worlds were equally important to Earth, and overseen by different aspects of the Almighty God. Bruno never recanted and his death involved burning him as a heretic.
Bruno’s statue remains in the plaza, the hooded form facing the Vatican. He stands as a controversial proto-martyr, standing for the eventual scientific revolution which radically reformed modern religion.
Also while exploring the city, I passed the Colosseum, historically known as the Flavian Amphitheater. The structure is undoubtedly magnificent, home to some of the most imagination-catching, state-sanctioned blood sports in history. Though from one angle, the Colosseum matches what I’ve seen in photos, there are other angles which reveal far more dusty, red bricks holding the legendary structure up.
Core of Christianity
One of the undoubtedly awe-inspiring things I visiting in Rome was visit the profoundly impactful micro-nation known as the Vatican City.
Officially registered as the smallest country in the world, the grounds of the Vatican are technically a fully-autonomous absolute monarchy ruled by the Pope himself. In reality, the Vatican’s religious potency has far more powerful and reaching influences. The micronation hums as a lodestone for historical events since the 4th-century.
The Vatican is difficult to describe in terms of feelings. There’s nowhere on Earth with the same level of condensed theological authority. The only other two places that might have similar strength are Jerusalem and Mecca. I’ve not been to Jerusalem in life yet, and as a non-Muslim forbidden from preforming the hajj, I’ll never see Mecca.
Some of the most potent features of the Vatican City are the artworks. Between St. Peter’s Basilica, the Sistine Chapel, St. Peter’s Square, Castel Sant’Angelo, the Gardens of the Vatican City and the stellar Vatican Museums, the breadth and mastery of art is magnificent.
This is nearly impossible to overstate. There are sculptures which appear to breathe, architectural marvels which seem weightless, paintings which are richer than life itself and artifacts which positively hum with ancient energy and religious symbolism. The art of the Vatican City is, in short, supremely close to being divine on its own.
Dean Abbott once wrote ““Beauty reminds us that we are more than mere matter and that we long for meaning outside from ourselves. And that is why modernity hates it.“
Granted, I’ve met not people of the modern world who actively hate beauty. But I’m inclined to agree that the Vatican contains something of splendor and meaning that extends beyond mere matter.
Visiting Rome Icons
As a city with a history dated back into sheer mythos and with the power of nearly timeless influence on humanity’s trajectory, there was still far more major attractions to see.
I visited the unmissable Trevi Fountain, pale blue waters swirling under intricate posed statues of white stone atop dramatic rocks. The fountain proved difficult to reach, thanks to the crowds. I fought to get close enough for a photo and pitched a coin into the waters.
The urban legends around the fountain are thus: With one coin tossed in, a person shall return to Rome. If two coins are thrown, a person shall fall in love with an Italian. If a visitor throws three, they’ll marry soon.
I know my life and my heart fairly well. I gathered a single Euro and flipped it into the water. Task done, I swam back through the crowd, stumbling to get away from the minor pushing matches as more tourists sought photos.
Later on, I stopped at the Pantheon, Rome’s most well-preserved ancient, pagan temple. Built to honor the Roman Pantheon, the structure has served continuously over the millennia as a Roman Temple, then a Christian house of worship and eventually endured into a tremendously popular tourist attraction.
The original temple was commissioned by one of my favorite historical figures of all time, Marcus Agrippa, the powerful and capable lifelong ally of Gaius Octavius, who would earn immortality in history under the name Caesar Augustus.
I spent a long time gazing at the Pantheon. It’s current form is likely quite close to it’s original design. It was restored by Emperor Hadrian after a fire destroyed the original building.
In retrospect, I lingered in front of the building for quite a while. I wonder how many selfies I inadvertently photobombed?
Core of Monuments
As expansive as the list above might seen, I hadn’t seen a fraction of the things I was compelled to visit yet.
I continued onward at some point, wandering the immense ruins of the Roman Forum (Forum Romanum). Where many of Rome’s ancient monuments are intact, restored or actively used, these grounds are home to truly ancient foundations.
Immense pillars, arches and excavated walkways create one of the most spectacular sights in Rome. Built by Emperor Domitian in 81 CE, the area became a centerpiece for monuments of military triumphs, politically charged landmarks, social grounds and religious features.
For an era, the Roman Forum was a quaint background piece, falling into disrepair with the collapse of the Roman Empire. It was a peaceful grassland called ‘Campo Vaccino,’ translating to “The Cow Field.” Much of the site’s original marble was plundered during this period.
Walking around the Forum stole countless hours from me, time I’ll never want back.
Afterwards, I only had a few famous monuments I wanted to check out. I visited the Rococo-styled Spanish Steps leading up to the French monastery church Trinita dei Monti, ducking between lines of attentive tourists.
For a while, I stood in awe of Trajan’s Column, a massive pillar with carvings wrapping up the side, depicting Trajan’s immortalizing victories during the Dacian Wars, which raced 101-102 CE and 105-106 CE).
I heard a tour guide boldly state, “If you can’t fill up a single massive pillar with the events leading to your military victory, was it really a victory worth the fight?”
Hand of a Liar
Though I wouldn’t consider it one of Rome’s most iconic attractions, I also went to visit the Mouth of Truth. Judging by the enormous line wrapping around the building, I think it qualifies as one of the “unmissable” features of Rome.
Found in Santa Maria in Cosmedin Church, the Mouth of Truth is a stone disk with a crude marble mask etched within. I adore local, ancient and urban legends, so I was happy to review this tale once more:
According to enduring medieval beliefs, the Mouth of Truth will bite off the hand of a liar who places their palm in the mask’s mouth. Only those who are honest in life can place their hand inside with immunity.
After seeing the Mouth of Truth, I made my way to the legendary ruins of Circus Maximus. Hailed as the largest stadium of Ancient Rome, the rounded track was the site of intense, sometimes lethal chariot races and other forms of entertainment.
This immense list of vital Roman activities concludes my “can’t-miss-it” list for the Eternal City. However, I wasn’t anywhere near finished. I had many other unique places and tucked-away attractions I yearned to see.
The Legionnaire Traditions
In many of the legendary histories surrounding ancient Rome’s army, the legions, there are stories and historical accounts of extreme durability. The armies which founded the Roman societies were a unification of endurance and cunning singular in the ancient world.
Legions were known to walk and march. A lot. They were expected to march in full battle attire for over 20 miles a day with enough energy remaining to set up defended military camps each night.
In honor of this, that’s how I got around Rome. I walked. Everywhere.
The list above would’ve been a hefty enough toll for the soles of my feet, but I found other pockets of Rome I couldn’t pass up either.
One can live in Rome for a decade and never find all the nooks and trinkets and swirls of historical potency hidden about. But I can make a tiny list for future reference and preserved memories.
The Uncountable of Rome
I spent a long, winding hike following cobbled roads to visit Largo di Torre Argentina, a sizeable and significant old square in the city. The best part about the preserved ruins are the innumerable cats found lounging in the protected park, basking on stones and strutting on ancient monuments. There’s a nearby shelter which cares for the cats.
I also visited Quartiere Coppede, an Architectural fantasy-quarter with outlandish combinations of buildings, fountains and streets.
Further on, I spent some time forcibly readjusting my eyes while visiting Sant’Ignazio Church, a building with a perplexing dome illusion. The building was supposed to have a glorious dome installed, but funding for the church ran out. Undaunted, the painter and Jesuit Brother Andrea Pozzo painted a life-sized dome on the interior of the building, which does a splendid job of selling the illusion.
I visited the few remaining features of Nero’s Golden House, Domus Aurea, a once-massive royal complex which gained enduring infamy thanks to the mad Emperor Nero.
As the histories go, Emperor Nero Claudius Caesar Augustus Germanicus of the Julian-Claudian Dynasty was viewed with overwhelming vitriol and hostility by contemporary Roman sources. Among his most infamous misdeeds, Nero is thought to have sat idly by during the Great Fire of Rome, playing his fiddle as he watched the city eaten by flames. It’s notable that some histories attribute the fires themselves to Nero, who wanted to burn down Roman houses to create more space for his palace complex.
Aside from major historical venues, I also visited the Centrale Montemartini, an impressive Greek-and-Roman museum filled with dramatic statues in an old power plant.
The Roman Work
While much of visiting Rome was absolutely pleasure, it was often interspaced with work. I sat down with a range of individuals, conducting interviews. My company also had a few more unique places to check out.
For example, I visited the somewhat entertaining Roman Gladiator School and Museum, which offers child-friendly “training” regiments, teaching kids how to fight like a gladiator. I mentioned it in passing to one of my interviewees and he laughed, stating “Great for aspiring slaves hoping for freedom by combat, great for kids too!”
I also managed to talk my way into Casa Della Vicette after closing hours. The deliberately fabricated rustic building takes on a “Medieval Hamlet” vibe. The result is a half-home, half-fairy-tale abode, all combined into a pseudo-abstract attraction.
At another point, my company directed me to Bartolucci, a traditional toy-store known for its old fashioned wooden toys, made for children’s entertainment long before plastic was an option.
I took some of my breaks in the Borghese Gardens, watching the rowing boats move around the monuments.
My absolute favorite semi-accidental find was Vendita Libri, Cioccolata e Vino, a chocolate liquor shop with a menu consisting of edible chocolate shot glasses. All of the names are perfectly profane, each describing a different sexual act.
A Farewell to Rome
Truthfully, that was enough of a legionnaire march for my time in the city. I finished my last day visiting Rome, utterly wrung out, a few inches of rubber vanished from my boots.
I did have some final notes I’d like to remember about the entire experience.
For example, The most refreshing thing about visiting Rome is the small pumps of drinking water endlessly spilling out onto the streets. The waters come from natural springs and fall into shallow tubs. It’s perfectly safe to drink right out of the tap.
It’s a cool, fresh and delicious treat, so chilled that I could only cup my hands for a single minute to drink.
There’s also something inherently better about drinking out of a lion’s mouth or dripping, carved lotus.
Another feature of Rome is the human-centric time dilation. One of the surefire ways to slow down time is to cram every moment with charged and engaging events.
Everything in Rome left me excited, thrilled and eager to continue exploring. Though I only spent a total of five days in the city, by the time I was done, it felt like two weeks.
But even that wasn’t quite enough.
My time visiting Rome is now done. I’m expected to uproot myself once more, moving back to Florence before taking a connecting ride to Venice.
I’ll miss Rome dearly, But I know my coin tossed in the Trevi Fountain will do it’s task one day or another.
So until that day,
Best regards and excellent trails,
Old Sean
Written August 19th, 2018
Read more about visiting Rome and seeing the world by visiting Leftfade Trails Destination Info.
Affiliate Disclosure: Leftfade Trails contains affiliate links, so using services or products through these links supports the website, at no extra cost to the user. All links are to tested services and products designed to aid travelers on their journeys. Some links specifically connect to Amazon. As an Amazon Associate this website earns from qualifying purchases.
Ten years ago, I abandoned my military surplus store backpack for a Farpoint 40 Osprey Travel Pack. I’ve never replaced my bag since. Two years ago, I bought two more Osprey Backpacks for my younger siblings on their first tour outside the country. I have nothing but praise for Osprey Products.
