“Strikes have plagued Europe which is real stalling factor during my travels. I miss Japan, where bus strikes meant doing their jobs but refusing to accept fares to inconvenience their employers alone. Those were clever, honest instigators.” – Old Sean
Into Winelands
My brother and I spent a considerable amount of time enjoying the tail end of our trip in the lovely city of Bordeaux. On our very last full day together in France, I convinced my brother to come visit the local wine capital of the countryside, Saint-Emilion
I originally wanted to visit Arcachon and the impressive Dune du Pilat, but France’s heat wave foiled me again. Fires currently rage to the south, heaping out smoke. The Southern Gironde Wildfires have caused evacuations and I decided against gambling for the coast.
Instead, my brother and I went further inland. The entire village of Saint-Emilion is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The tiny medieval town with buildings from the 12th century onward is a vital part of the countryside dedicated to wine production. Indeed, upon arrival, endless fields of grapevines stretched into the distance, tiny green bulbs warbling slightly in the intense heat. The wine-fields here have secured Saint-Emilion’s fame and their bottles can be found in every corner of the country.
For all it’s crushing sunlight, the French countryside remains defiantly green for now.
Impressions of Saint-Émilion
Walking to Saint-Emilion from the train station was a bit of a trial, but we made it despite baking slightly.
Saint-Emilion is the same color-scheme as Bordeaux, crafted of intricate tan stones. But where Bordeaux has a lot of modern touches, Saint-Emilion is true to roots from centuries ago. The tallest building in the area is the large rectangle in the sky, the King’s Tower. The interior of the tower hosts a dark cavern with diminished weeds turning towards scant sunlight. At the lower street of the tower, there are two pools known as the Wash Rooms. These open air pools, once used for washing, are currently wading features where visitors cool their toasty heels while walking thorugh the city.
Atop the center hill of Saint-Emilion is the Monolithic Church. The proud spire can be seen from nearly anywhere, but it is the cloister interior which deserves the most praise. Sharp artworks, gilded with reflective paint depict intense and colorful story images across stone-and-wood walls.
A Blanket of Heat
It was at this point (less than an hour in our explorations) that the heat struck us down again. France is hot right now. Painfully so. We were forced to stop at a dessert shop for wine and Crème Brule. This was not due to a sweet tooth, but instead a desperate need for water. We swiftly drained nearly three rounds of cooled tap water, knowing it wouldn’t sustain us for the rest of the day.
As we continued on (with my brother trying the local canele treats), we did our best to see the other points of interest around the city. The wine cellars were of particular interest, as they retained historical accuracy and were blessedly cool. At the edge of the city, we were introduced to a single, intact portion of an old convent, known locally as the Great Wall.
Sadly, I think the Great Wall of China has the French Great Wall soundly beaten, but I’m hardly an ancient architecture expert. As we wandered back into the city, we visited art venues, tiny photography studios, baking marketplaces, wooden toy shops, mineral collections and another couple of places to sample sparkling wine.
Hidden from the Sun
Our final stop, the classy Cloitre des Cordeliers, was a relief. Well shaded, this bar was hidden in the old ruins of an ancient building with a supremely classy shopping interior. My brother and I were so winded by this point, we were simply glad to buy a baguette and flute of sparkling wine before heading home.
However, France’s flawed year of public transport struck again. After a hike through crippling heat back to the train station, we faced fifty minutes of delays. Unable to reach anything nearby (because there was nothing nearby) my brother and I hunkered in shifting shadows, laying down and spread eagle in the hopes of dissipating some heat. The train finally arrived, packed with standing crowds trying to reach Bordeaux, granting us the smallest relief from a setting, but unabating sun.
Our remaining time in Bordeaux was spent resting. My brother flew back to the United States the following day, while I made plans to continue further into Europe. While my plans aren’t solidified yet, I’m sure they’ll reveal themselves soon enough.
Until next time,
Best regards and excellent trails,
Old Sean
Written July 19th, 2022
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This Fire-Maple 1L Hard Anodized Aluminum Pot cooking pot is perfect for single meals. I use it in hostels, apartments and on camping trips. The narrow shape lays down flat in my bag and the material is very light. The folding handles make it a good tool for making hot chocolate on cold mornings
