Visiting San Juan: Lingering the Rest

“What more can I see aside from that which is sought and witnessed by me?” – Old Sean

Unrattled

I have an entertaining miniature hobby that involves seeking out flights with extended layover times. It allows me the chance for swift vacations between much longer journeys. In this case, I left Barbados to fly to Florida. However, instead of flying direct, which costed a whooping $600 USD, I opted for a cheaper and more meandering option. A $180 USD flight got me where I needed to go with a fourteen hour layover in Puerto Rico.

Upon leaving Barbados, I soon found myself in the airport of Puerto Rico. Entry to the island territory is a surreal experience in some ways. For instance, much of the customs and TSA action is staunchly United States oriented. However, jarringly, Spanish is the language of the day. Furthermore, people with US passports oddly have to wait longer in a snaking line to exit the baggage area. As such, it was a couple of hours before I successfully squirmed free of the crowded press behind me.

Puerto Rico has a unique history in the Caribbean. In ages past, the island was inhabited by the Taino people until the island was claimed by Spain during Christopher Columbus’s second voyage. For the next four centuries, the island nation would be a crucial military, economic, coffee production, sugarcane plantation and shipping nexus. Eventually, Puerto Rico would be formally granted to the United States following the Spanish-American War, a conflict which greatly elevated the United States to the colonial powers stage. From there, Puerto Rico would remain a US territory with citizens gaining US citizenship in 1917. Subsequent decades have touched on Puerto Rico’s status as the population considered statehood, territory status, independence or retaining its commonwealth status.

Overall, the entire situation makes Puerto Rico an utterly unique place for a United States Lower-Forty-Eight tourist to visit.

Where the Cats Might Roam

Once I had exited the airport, I caught an Uber to San Juan’s Old Town (Viejo San Juan). To be frank, Viejo San Juan wasn’t my first choice to visit. Puerto Rico is rife with other attractions scattered across its territory, far more unique than San Juan’s admittedly impressive colonial district. The microscopic glowing organisms of Bahia Bioluminiscente, the subtropical Guanica State Forest, the alien sculptures of Museuo El Cemi, the interactive Caguana Ceremonial Indigenous Heritage Center and the unique structurs of Cueva de las Golondrias all had far greater appeal for me.

But time makes a mockery of mortality. I simply didn’t have enough hours to spare for a long trip to other portions of the island. So I made the most of my time in San Juan.

My Uber driver was polite enough, but when he got gridlocked in traffic, he suggested I step out and walk the last four or five blocks to my chosen destination. Since exploration was the next theme of the day, I accepted and started my slow hike through the region, bag firmly on my shoulders.

As I walked, cats passively watched me walk past with detached gazes. A couple trotted over for some back scratches, as they are owed. I was pleased to see so many of the felines wandering around. They added an air of comfort to the city I would’ve missed otherwise.

I arrived at a small dining establishment known as Café El Punto, which served a hefty meal of fish, smoothies, rice, beans and tomato salad. I was certainly hit with the usual hefty bill brought on by dining in the Caribbean, but I was pleased to final have food in my belly. My last meal had been breakfast in Barbados.

A Tomb Without Youth

The very first thing I wanted to see in Puerto Rico was none other than The Tomb of Juan Ponce de León. Ponce de León earned his fame during the age of exploration, famously serving as a Spanish conquistador and joining Columbus on his second voyage to the new world. He also served as the first governor of Puerto Rico. Prior to these events, he gained military experience during action against the Moors.

However, if there is anything Ponce de León is famed for, it is his legendary search for the Fountain of Youth. The mythical fountain could supposedly return a person to their physical prime after sipping or bathing in it. It was thought to be the key which led to eternal life. Ponce de León would spend much of his career seeking out this fountain but the adventure would eventually doom him. In 1521, León led an expedition to Florida where he was mortally wounded by the indigenous population. He would die later in Cuba, his body finding its final resting place in Puerto Rico.

There was a service ongoing when I entered the church, so I quietly held back for some time while the priest finished mass and the small crowd of worshippers left. Afterwards, I brushed past Ponce de León’s  tomb, a bold marble carving tied to one of the most enduring legends of the New World.

Feathered

After my time in the church, I headed south to walk around the rim of the city. All of San Juan Viejo is basically a fortified citadel with sheer walls overlooking water, stone and lower tourist areas. I wandered through Parque de las Palomas for a short respite. The park is especially entertaining for the numerous pigeons which live within. Nearby walls are carefully pocketed with nesting places, allowing dozens of pigeons to safely call the park home. Needless to say, there were no cats within. I cannot imagine they’re welcome.

My short jaunt continued, taking me past the compact chapel known as Capilla del Santo Cristo de la Salud. Further strides took me past the imposing walls of La Fortaleza, the defensible governor’s residence of the old town area. I continued to follow the outer wall for the next hour, pausing occasionally to peer over the fortification for panoramic curiosity.

Eventually, I followed wandering cats past Castillo San Felipe del Morro, yet another series of fortifications. Here, families rested on large green fields around the base of the wall. Kites often flew and dipped overhead. Cats continued to lounge and scamper in equal amounts. I could feel sweat dripping from my nose, the humidity of the day compounding the weight of my backpack.

Crosshatched

The remainder of my journey took me back and forth through San Juan’s grid-streets. I spotted strange pillar monuments, stopped for small cups of gelato, browsed pointless tourist souvenirs, winced after taking a shot of smooth rum, kicked around art museums, browsed stalls as Plaza de Armas, took photos of the pastel-colored buildings and blinked at overlooks. Strange grey-blue bricks lined the streets everywhere I walked and I blinked in quiet relief when the sun lowered and the air cooled.

One of the splendid things about San Juan is the structure of the streets. The town grid is built on an incline, which allows guests to see down entire roads, gazing straight into the sea below.

Eventually, I gathered myself some dinner before clumping along the docks. My time in Puerto Rico was rapidly drawing to a close.

With time running out, I sought out some free WIFI next to the “I Heart Puerto Rico” sign and summoned an Uber for a ride to the airport. Once there, I trudged my way through security and waited inside.

And waited.

And waited.

And typed this.

And waited.

My flight has been delayed several times, so I will not be reaching Florida tonight, but instead in the wee hours of tomorrow morning.

While I generally end my posts with a little more elegance than this, sleepiness has ensnared me fully. I’ll continue to write about my journeys once I arrive in Florida.

So until then,

Best regards and excellent trails,

Old Sean

Written July 14th, 2024

Read more about visiting Puerto Rico and seeing the world by visiting Leftfade Trails Blog.

Affiliate Disclosure: Leftfade Trails contains affiliate links, so using services or products through these links supports the website, at no extra cost to the user. All links are to tested services and products designed to aid travelers on their journeys. Some links specifically connect to Amazon. As an Amazon Associate this website earns from qualifying purchases.