“I’ve got to give all those old cowboys credit. Riding in the sunset is damn tricky, especially without our newfangled sunglasses.” – Old Sean
Rows of Verdant
Following my extended day exploring the stunning natural features of Pamukkale, I drove west, into the sunset. I was heading to Izmir for one last visit before turning myself back towards Istanbul.
As I drove, I was rendered breathless by the scenery. The valley I drove through was flat and lush, filled with neat rows of farm, leaves practically glowing green with unique vitality. Mountains were staggered in the distance, lower portions rolling into higher ones, giving a uniquely dramatic effect of distance-based perspective.
The orange-golden sun began blaring across my eyes as time went onwards, I was more than a little astonished at the effect. My horizon shifted from gilded to verdant depending which way I was facing. I often stopped to take photos, but not a single snapshot did the world around me even a percentage of justice.
A Welcome of Sardis
Though I was eager for a long night’s rest in Izmir, I made a final stop on my way back. The final ancient city and ruins of my journey turned out to be Sardis Ancient City.
By this point, I was out of cash, but since the site was closing in just half an hour after my arrival, I was waved through for a brief, enlightening tour.
Sardis once stood as the famed capital of the Lydian Empire, also know as the Kingdom of Lydia which existed from about 1200 BC to 546 BCE in the central portion of modern day Turkey. The nation is especially famed for its recovered ancient Lydian coins, crafted of silver, which are among the oldest metal currencies in existence, dated to around the 7th century BCE.
Thought Sardis was settled before 1500 BCE. the exact size and nature of the earliest settlement is unknown since only small extramural portions of these layers have been excavated.
However, those layers are stunning. Brick walls are enclosed by protective awnings. Amazingly intact mosaics rest upon the ground. Thin-stalked flowers of red cluster around the base of ancient, white pillars. The span of tall grass, low rises and blooming flowers lends a sense of peace to the ruins I’ve scarcely felt elsewhere in the world.
There also exists an ancient gymnasium, several shopping areas and some beautiful carvings. I spent as much time as I possible could inside the ruin site, before it finally closed.
White Dress Upon Walls
Before I was required to start driving again, I drove up several nearby hills where ruined walls braced against the sunset. There, a couple in wedding attire were taking photos. I gave them plenty of room as I hiked ever-upwards to settle down and watch the sunset finish.
I breathed in and blinked and felt that it was a worthy way to spend the last daylit moments of my day.
Following my sunset hours, I went into town and bought some road trip snacks. Afterwards, I managed to borrow some Wifi and contact my Airbnb host, letting him know that I would be arriving in Izmir soon.
Then, with nothing else filling my schedule and all major tourism and historic attractions fully experienced, I strove onwards to Izmir.
The Luckless Booking
Originally, I hoped to find my friend Kevin again in Izmir. But he had already gone on a vacation of his own with his girlfriend in the town of Datça, eventually wandering to the ruins of Knidos for swimming.
It’s a bit hilarious, considering how much I’ve been blessed to travel in life. But I still get jealous when I see other people traveling the world. Strange, isn’t it?
Regardless, Kevin’s spare room wasn’t available. So I attempted to find a place on Airbnb, using the Wifi at Cafe Valiente where a boisterous sporting event was going on.
Sadly, we’re in the midst of the Eid Holiday, so bookings are overwhelming. I was unable to find a room in the first three Airbnbs and the two hotels I messaged.
Finally, I found a person with a pair of reviews offering an Airbnb experience in the Bornova Neighborhood.
He asked for a couple of hours to get set up, so I wandered to the seaside to kill time for a couple of hours. Finally, once midnight had passed, I headed to my lodgings for the night.
Pipes and Flights
When I arrived at my Airbnb, I was greeted by my host, who had a pair of friends over. My host spoke limited English and his friends were unable to communicate without translation software. Nonetheless, we chatted, sipping at tea as the night grew long. I said hello to the lovely black dog who continuously plodded over and leaned back in the small kitchen.
At some point, my host asked if I was okay with him and his friends smoking. As the group had been chain smoking cigarettes the entire time, I was a bit amused by the question, so I said it was fine.
But then my host pulled out a glass pipe from a cabinet filled with some white substance at the bottom and offered it to me.
I politely declined since I’m not fond of smoking strange substances with strangers in foreign nations at one in the morning, but everyone just shrugged and started lighting up.
At this point, my host asked me how much I was going to pay.
For those unaware, this is a concerning question. One of the main merits of Airbnb is the fact that payments are done online. Extra charges are also done through the app. I had already paid more than thirty dollars for the night, so I was immediately on even higher guard.
First, my host asked me to pay one hundred US dollars for my night of rest, even though I would only be sleeping from 1:30 AM to 7:00 AM. When he saw my bleak expression, he asked me to lower it to a mere $50.00 USD.
Now, I’m a paranoid old wanderer. Time has only made me more so. I always leave my bag in my car when checking in so I have the chance to exit in a hurry, if need be. So when I heard the offer for $50 USD, I eagerly agreed, shook hands and went downstairs to “get my wallet.”
A minute and fifteen seconds later, I was veering out of the city, reporting my host’s behavior on Airbnb and winging north to the Mount Spil National Park area.
Ragged Camp
Sadly, with so much of my night gone and everything effectively closed for the morning, there wasn’t a chance for another booking. I opted to go camping for the evening, pitching a tent against my car somewhere in the woods around Mount Spil.
Tomorrow, I’ll wake up slightly sleep deprived and grumpy. I’ll likely need to make my way back to Istanbul a day before my car rental is due to make sure return goes smoothly.
Well, better that random drug-induced extortion. Onwards I go.
Until Istanbul,
Best regards and excellent trails,
Old Sean
Written April 15th, 2024
Read more about visiting Sardis and seeing the world by visiting Leftfade Trails Destination Info.
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