Visiting Selçuk: The Elder Gate of Anatolia

“I would have died the richest man in my graveyard. But there’s chocolate and road trips in this world, so sound finances were always going to abandon me.” – Old Sean

Through the Wrangleroads

After leaving the seaside of Izmir, I journeyed south towards my first series of Turkish ruins in the early hours of the day.

In previous posts, I mentioned how excellent the Turkish highway system is. It’s easy to navigate, generally has minimal traffic and practically soars over the rugged countryside.

However, the interior of Turkey’s cities are a different story. They’re filled with narrow roads, dotted by potholes and tend to have numerous blind corners and poor parking space.

So upon arriving in Selçuk, I struggled mightily to navigate a series of backstreets while looking for a parking space. It was only after returning to a semi-main road and working my way back up a mountain, I found a place to continue on foot.

I was specifically trying to visit the ruins of Ayasuluk Citadel, a prominent series of hill fortifications overlooking the modern city below. The citadel was once the centerpiece of an ancient city known as Ephesus,  an ancient community  with the remains of a large theater and the Library of Celsus. The community was Greek, but its history is far more profound. According to archeological evidence, humans had begun inhabiting the area surrounding Ephesus by the by the Neolithic Age (from about 6000 BC). This is shown by evidence from excavations at the nearby höyük (otherwise known as artificial mounds, also called tells).

The History of the Hill

Ephesus, as a distinctly mentioned Greek settlement, was founded as an Attic-Ionian colony in the 10th century BC on a hill (now known as the Ayasuluk Hill. The mythical founder of the Greek heritage site was a famed prince of Athens named Androklos.

In mythos, Androklos left his country following the death of his father, King Kodros. He founded Ephesus in conjunction with the prophecies provided by the oracle of Delphi. As a successful warrior, Androklos conquered and allied his nearby neighbors, tying together twelve cities of Ionia into the Ionian League.

The city was once famous for hosting the many-breasted “Lady of Ephesus”, otherwise identified with the Greek goddess Artemis, who was venerated in the Temple of Artemis. The site was considered one of the lost Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

The city endured through its long history, hosting Alexander the Great during his legendary liberation of the region, ushering in the Hellenistic Age. Eventually, Ephesus, as part of the kingdom of Pergamon, would become a subject of the Roman Republic in 129 BCE. Slightly prior to this era, the surrounding region became vital as a site for Christian pilgrimage. Saint John spent time in Ephesus alongside the Virgin Mary sometime between 37 and 48 CE. The relics and structures associated with them are admired and visited by modern Christians to this day.

Later, Ephesus remained one of the most important city of the Byzantine Empire. It would continue to exist during the Pre-Ottoman and Ottoman eras. Finally, Ephesus was completely abandoned by the 15th century.

I mention all of this to demonstrate the staggering depth of recorded history behind this site. Ephesus and Selçuk are unique historical treasures, but not overtly so. The region I was traveling through had seen era after era thrive at one of the most prominent crossroads of humanity. My trip through Turkey would be defined, over and over again, by the daunting press of historic potency.

Eyes Over

Walking the ruins of Ephesus is a gorgeous experience. White lilies are planted alongside stone pathways. Gates, pillars, slabs of marble, brick pathways, clay pots, excavation machines, gorgeous overlooks and legions of cheerful cats all combine into a profoundly soothing experience. The entire hill smells of blossoms and white chunks of broken marble contrast soundly with the rambling modern city below.

Also included in the ruins are the dominating fortifications and the famed Basilica of Saint John.

Constructed by Justinian I also known as Justinian the Great, the Eastern Roman emperor from 527 to 565 CE, this basilica was built due to St John’s historic link to Ephesus.

As one might expect from such a truly ancient landscape, there are numerous historical markers worn by time scattered throughout the area. To the south, there stands the Ephesus Archaeological Site. Also nearby, though poorly labeled, is the Cave of Seven Sleepers, which follows a popular religious tale. In most versions of the story, seven individuals move away from the public to practice their religion in seclusion in defiance of their king. They fall into a long hibernation, potentially lasting up to 200 years. When they awaken, protected by the grace of God or their faith, they “return” to living.

Even further to the south, there exists The House of the Virgin Mary, a chapel site built near the alleged former home of the Virgin Mary. In most historical contexts, it’s suggested that the safety of the Virgin Mary was entrusted to Saint John and she lived humbly in this region following the Crucifixion of Jesus Christ.

In the end, Selçuk proved to be nearly overwhelming in the number of ruins and sites to visit. While the Turkish tourism industry is making major strides in the preservation and protection of these sites, actual information is a little difficult to come across in person. Instead, it’s generally better to read about historical events online as one visits.

Onwards Sunbeam

Eventually, I settled down for a hefty gulp of coffee. One of the biggest tricks of this journey would be pacing. I knew that it would be far too easy to spend all my time rushing from place to place instead of giving myself ample time to rest. So rather than darting onwards, I pulled up a library book about the region and sipped my drink until I felt unhurried.

Once I finally felt solid, I slowly started driving south once more. By necessity of limited time, I had to begin skipping some of the sites on my route. There are simply too many ancient cities and prominent ruins in the region. As such, I completely bypassed the historical area around Alinda and the Ancient City of Stratonikeia. I barely glanced at the ancient ruins of Kaunos and finally settled in for sunset at the tourist town of Göcek.

Göcek is a lovely harbor village facing a series of endearing mountains. Smooth waves rush in the distance and the natural scenery is gorgeous. I spent my evening here enjoying ice cream and dinner, waiting for night to fall. There were tiled artworks, arches made of flowers, softly-lit outdoor dining areas, a small forest of modern sailing vessels tilting on the water and quaint mosques.

One of the amusing things about this region of Turkey is the extended amount of time twilight endures. Due to the mountains blocking light for far longer, the murky half-light at the end of a day keeps roads and walking places uniquely dim for hours before true night falls.

But true night did eventually fall. And while Göcek is lovely, it’s not the best place for an overnight stay. So once the world had shimmered back to darkness, I returned to the road.

Later this evening, once I’m finished with my fortifying night tea, I’ll finish my drive for the night. My next destination will serve as my base for a couple of days. I’m off to the portside community on the Turquoise Coast, Fethiye.

So until then,

Best regards and excellent trails,

Old Sean

Written April 7th, 2024

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