Visiting Willemstad: Curaçao Colors

“I thought my eyes accomplished, orbs which had seen a most varied number of oddities. Yet the world still surprised me.” – Old Sean

Island Entrance

After a relaxing evening in Bogotá, I took a short flight over puffy white clouds and incredibly green fields to a tiny island ringed by beaches and turquoise waters. In a matter of hours, I had landed in Curaçao.

If one hasn’t heard of Curaçao, they could be forgiven. As far as Caribbean islands go, Curaçao isn’t widely know. Far more famous are Cuba, Haiti, Jamacia, the Bahamas, the Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, Trinidad & Tobago and Barbados.

But Curaçao is among of the many islands which spot the Caribbean, just to the north of Venezuela, a neighbor to Aruba. The island is a Dutch colonial island, beloved for it’s cove-tucked beached and thriving coral reefs. It remains part of the constituent country of the Kingdom of the Netherlands.

Under Spanish rule, Curaçao was a failed agricultural island which was difficult to farm. Eventually, however, the island was converted into a large ranchland until the Dutch took ownership in 1634. Under Dutch colonization, Curaçao became a vital trade hub, including enterprises related to the Atlantic Slave Trade. Though British forces would storm Curaçao, the island remained predominantly Dutch.

A Caribbean Welcome

The last time I was in the Caribbean was years ago. And with that gap, some vital knowledge may have slipped my mind.

The Caribbean Islands are not temporally or administratively ambitious.

Indeed, I spent more than an hour waiting for slow lines to shuffle forward at the Curaçao airport. The wait was a bit of an ordeal, but I kept reminding myself this is typical of Caribbean nations.

When the wait finally passed, I walked outside and attempted to find a bus into Willemstad. Taxis in Curaçao are notoriously expensive and I wasn’t ready to drop nearly forty US dollars on an evening drive.

I eventually got a shuttle, which took me on a quick loop into Willemstad for a mere five dollars. I was dropped near my Airbnb which was close to Plasa Bieu (Old Market). It’s important to note that Willemstad is split by the Saint Anna Bay. I specifically had to mention that I was based in Punda before my driver would take me anywhere.

Bright in the Night

I quickly checked into my Airbnb which was hosted by a boisterous, friendly man who proudly showed the wonderful work he’d done on making the building homey. I was delighted by the welcome and quickly put down my luggage to make a night of exploring town.

Willemstad, fortunately, is perfectly walkable. At night, a cool ocean breeze banishes some of the intense humidity of the Caribbean summer. Additionally, with Hurricane Beryl recently passed by ,the air felt cleansed somehow. Prior stormclouds had swept some of the settled sky away.

Walking Willemstad proved to be lovely. There are endless murals along the various streets and the main shopping areas are brightly lit. I spent a fair amount of time browsing these, slowly making my way towards the bay.

St. Anna Bay proved to be a lovely sight as well. Sparkling waters hosted a cruise ship and the quaint Dutch buildings on the other side were wonderful to behold. Also impressive was the shifting, floating bridge arched by lights. Also known as the Queen Emma Bridge, I walked over the wooden surface, delighting in the slight shift under my feet. The graceful arc of the Queen Juliana Bridge in the distance glittered with cars.

Dime and Dine

On the opposite side of the bay, I walked among restaurants, enjoying snacks and drinks. I got a local ice creams which melted as fast as I could eat it. I stopped at a brewery called the Swinging Old Lady Brewery which served me a quick bottle. Then, I wrapped up my evening at Maira’s Kitchen, where I promptly stuffed myself with goat stew.

Upon hearing a popping sound, I also stepped outside to see fireworks going off over the bay area. I could only assume that the cruise ship anchored there is an American vessel providing a small light show to honor the 4th of July.

After dinner, I took a long loop back to eh bay, walking off the food in my belly. I eventually stepped back onto the Queen Emma Floating Bridge, idly wondering how the massive cruise ship deeper in the bay would get back out to sea. The floating bridge rested on water and I saw no way around it on maps.

The answer revealed itself to me, moments later. There was a chiming sound, much like a cafeteria bell at a 90’s middle school. Gates on either side of the bridge shuttered. The bridge suddenly unmoored itself on one side and started to curl, chugging through the water like a massive serpent, bending away from shore. I watched in amusement as the floating bridge re-anchored itself on the opposite shore for a few moments before curving back the way it came, bridging the bay once more. The entire display took about ten minutes.

I was quite appreciative. I’d never seen a bridge curl with engines in such a way.

No matter how far I wander, there are new sights wherever I go.

Rise and Brine

The following morning, I woke up at the crack of dawn hoping to see as much of Curaçao as I could. My flight was due to leave later in the day, so I was eager to explore what I could.

Willemstad was quite quiet when I began my morning walk. Most things don’t open up regionally until around 9:00 AM or so. With time on my hands, I walked freely, snapping pictures of murals and bright houses.

Willemstad has a wonderful array of murals and other artworks. For the rest of the morning, I sought out The Three O’Clock Romance Mural, the Mikve Israel-Emanuel Synagogue, the Old houses of Breedestraat, The Musical Instrument Dove Statue, the waterfront buildings of Handelskade, the Punda Love Heart, the long line of murals the Artwork Over the Alley in Otrobanda and the colored homes of Rif Old City Otrobanda.

It was a lovely morning. I had a swift breakfast of smoothies and breakfast burritos before returning to my Airbnb, since checkout was at eleven. Once situated, I stopped for a drink at Il Barile da Mario, browsing my map for other local adventures.

Thorned Loop

Sadly, I didn’t have too much more time on the island. My extended layover was only twenty-eight hours or so, and I desperately wished to make it to my flight with plenty of time to spare, fully aware of the Caribbean line-trudge at airlines.

However, I squeezed in a couple more sights. The first was a quiet view overlooking the sprawling dark-water bay of Schottegat which makes up the center of Willemstad. The second was buy fruit from the famed Floating Market found against the Waaigat small bay area. Thirdly, I ducked my head into New Market to browse the numerous knick-knacks within.

By then, I had run out of time.

I took a bus back towards the airport. I had really wished to visit the Cathedral Labyrinth Of Thorns, but this would have to be an event of another time.

Nearly Grounded

I arrived to the airport with four hours before my flight. As it turned out, I would need every minute. The lines were painfully long, snaking through the lobby several times as people shuffled forward with incredible lethargy. By the time I crossed the lobby, nearly an hour and a half had passed. The entire airport only had three “scan-in” points for tickets and only two staff members doing a customs check. The security area upstairs likewise only had two lines.

Overall, the airport of Willemstad looks a lot like a rural walkthrough space in Alaska that caters to one or two weekly international flights. As a major hub for hundreds of travelers, the logistics were completely overwhelmed.

Eventually, I got through the lines and slumped into my seat. The staff was lovely, passing out extra waters, making sure people were comfortable and apologizing for a delay while security got their act together.

I’m typing this while seated on the plane with nothing better to do. I burned through all my downloaded TV material while slogging through the lines below. I’ve not finished the second season of the decidedly odd Dirk Gently’s Holistic Detective Agency.

My time on this island was a short layover, but it was a lovely little experience I intend to treasure.

I’m off to my next island. So until I arrive in Trinidad and Tobago.

Best regards (Happy 4th of July) and excellent trails,

Old Sean

Written July 4th, 2024

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