Visiting Wrocław: All Roads Lead to Gnome

“Trust in your oldest myths. They have the best wisdom your ancestors could offer.” – Old Sean

Buses Abroad

After leaving Warsaw, I took a bus to the West. Next, I would be visiting Wrocław.

I’m currently traveling on a combination of rail lines and bus routes my company has funded. This has turned out to be an enjoyable way of getting around. All I have to do is purchase the ticket through specific websites and my company refunds me the amount. I’m on a “travel allowance” however, so I can’t simply get the most expensive first-class flights from place to place.

Arriving in Wrocław

Wrocław is a pretty city located on the banks of the Oder River in Western Poland. The city itself is full of elegant buildings, lots of cobbled roads, a suprisingly colorful Old Town are, contrasted by a Gothic-styled city hall and endless rows of red-orange roofs.

Upon visiting Wrocław, my itinerary was actually relatively short. My company was less concerned with all the locations around the city and more concerned with a story theme. As such, I had a quiet evening getting myself situated at my hostel.

A Legion of Krasnale

The best defining feature of Wrocław are the krasnale or “gnomes” (sometimes translated as “dwarves”). The gnomes of Wrocław are scattered throughout the central part of the city. The short, brassy statues hidden around their city, a clever continuous scavenger hunt for young children.

I made it a point to find as many of the little figures as I could. There are maps at the tourism offices to help seekers, but the gnomes are delightful to stumble across accidently.

The Gnomes of Wrocław are an active bunch spread throughout the city. Some are seen playing golf in plazas, sharing pints with metal dogs, pushing around large boulders, lounging on tilted chairs, dancing on street corners and partaking in dozens of other activities. There are gnomes statues displaying many occupations as well, with a musketeer gnome, butcher gnome, laundress gnome and numerous musicians all scattered throughout the city.

All told, there are over 100 gnomes throughout the city, though others count well over 300 hidden away.

Rise of the Gnomes

Historically speaking, the Gnomes of Wrocław were representative of a movement in the 1980s. The gnomes were humorous and satirical figures which became the oppositional symbol against the local communist regime. This movement, known as the Orange Alternative, had people dress up as gnomes or use gnome images to cover government propaganda.

Gnome statues began appearing in their current form in 2001, with a metal gnome statue appearing on Świdnicka Street to commemorate the contributions of the Orange Alternative.

Now, the gnomes are charming aspects of the city. They’re used as symbols of resistance and history, with many signs and guides describing their symbolism. For tourists, the gnomes are used in scavenger hunts for children and artwork which captures the whimsy of Wrocław‘s architecture.

Elder Gnome Stories – The Oder Goblin

The use of Gnomes as a symbol for the Orange Alternative wasn’t random. Gnome (or more specifically, Krasnale) have profound history in Polish legends and stories.

In many tales, gnomes are described as unseen helpers in times of hardship. There are stories of gnomes clearing fields, cooking food, cleaning homes and mending clothes.

One of the more famous stories involves the gnomes and a tiny goblin.

The Goblin, who lived near the Oder River, often invaded Wrocław to play pranks on the citizens. The town quickly grew tired of the Oder Goblin’s interruptions and jokes and tried to catch him. However, the Oder Goblin was swift, wily and cunning.

Unable to think of an alternative, the citizens of Wrocław pleaded with some local gnomes for help. The gnomes agreed and marched off to meet with the Oder Goblin. They cunningly lamented how beautiful the other side of the Oder River was and how lush and green the grass was.

The Oder Goblin, who had originally spawned from the grass patch, was filled with longing and nostalgia. He moved back into the patch of greenery and was never heard from again.

As thanks, the gnomes were granted a home within Wrocław. They were forever allowed to remain in the city. Gnomish communities have aided Wrocław in times of strife ever since.

Visiting Wrocław, Exploring Poland

Because much of my time would be spent photographing gnome statues, I started my day by visiting Wrocław Market Square.

It’s a beautiful area with narrow buildings in soothing pastel colors with white trim. The cobbled streets are quaint with hundreds of people milling through the area at any moment. Cafes and tourist shops ring the edges of the plaza space, folding umbrellas shading metal tables.

Monuments, fountains and, of course, gnome statues decorate the plaza. Many of the gnomes here are shinier than others in the city, thanks to hoards of children running their hands over the small, proud figures.

I continued following gnome-maps until I reached St. Mary’s Magdalene, an impressive church in waling distance of the Market Square. The church is especially nice since it has a narrow bridge spanning the spires of the church. The gap of air allows for dramatic overlooks of the city.

While above the city, I especially enjoyed watching a bold pigeon missing its landing and skidding off the slick surface before cooing away in a fluttery rage.

Beyond Old Town

Over the course of my day, I gradually moved East until I had reached Wrocław‘s Multimedia Fountain (Wrocławska Fontanna) where music and spouts of water snychronized in short shows. Crowds watched from behind shady, ivy-wrapped pillars (called the Pergola).

The fountain is located in a large and active green space with many other buildings, statues, monuments artworks and playgrounds. Szczytnicki Park to the north, Wojciech Cybulski Square and the strange Iglica needle-tower monument were all pleasant to see.

Back in town, I also made a point of visiting Museum of Bourgeois Art back in the Old Town Area. This brilliant, unmissable museum looks a bit like a top-tier gingerbread house with delicate decorations, proud clock towers and a intricate brick surface.

I got myself a bit of ice cream as the day wound down, spending a final few hours of sunlight hiking to Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island). This is an island saturated with churches and old religious buildings. This district of Wrocław is one of the most gorgeous night walks in Europe with old-fashioned gas lamps lit up each night.

I timed my arrival perfectly, with lights finally coming to life as my day ended.

Onward to Kraków

I actually only had one day in Wrocław. My company mostly wanted stories, interviews and images of the Old Town area and the various gnomes. Therefore, not much time was allocated to the visit.

I returned to my hostel, not bothering to unpack. Tomorrow morning, I’m taking another bus, this time heading to Kraków, home to Poland’s medieval architecture and preserved Jewish-district.

So, until then.

Best regards and excellent trails,

Old Sean

Written May 24th 2018

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