Visiting Xanthos: Reaping the Stone

“Do you think eyes go blurry as we grow older so our mind can grow stronger with the splendor and colors kept in loving memory?” – Old Sean

Brownies and Breakfasts

After a couple of nights exploring the land and trails around the coastal town of Fethiye, I woke up early to get back on the road. My Airbnb host, a spectacularly generous man, had already made me breakfast when I awoke. I had a healthy little meal before stopping at my favorite local café, Trio Café next to R. Bahriye Üçok Parkı.

Satisfied with a restorative cup of coffee and armed with a road-trip brownie, I began taking the mountain roads south. It took a considerable amount of time getting out of Fethiye’s early morning traffic, but once I had emerged, I was pleased to tilt peacefully along mountain roads.

While there were plenty of sights I wanted to experience, I had to be realistic with my limited time. Instead of stopping at every point, I tried to ensure my visits were solely to high-impact areas with lots of locally interesting features.

As such, I was forced to bypass several attractions in the region. I completely missed Kalabantia, Butterfly Valley, Pinara Ancient City, Sidyma Ancient City and a few smaller stops. This region of the world is absolutely saturated with ancient landmarks and features, to an almost sinful degree. The southern coast of Turkey was a vital trade route through the Mediterranean, linking the urban superpowers of ancient Europe with the vast, complex nexus of trade found in Persia, the Arabian Peninsula and other easterly regions. Since vessels of the era were often relatively fragile, it was common for ships to hop from island to island or follow shorelines, rather than risk open water storms. As a result, the buildup of civilization on semi-water trading routes is profound.

So instead of trying to visit every single ruin, historical marker and notorious outpost, I put my money on the ancient settlement of Xanthos.

The Open Arena

The city of Xanthos was a profound center of culture and commerce for the Lycian people. The city was later vital to the Persians, Greeks and Romans, who in turn conquered the region and surrounding lands. It’s worth noting that the city has various historical legends surrounding it, many of which survived to the modern era.

For example, Xanthos’ patron deity was Leto, the Greek goddess and the mother of Apollo and Artemis. She is the daughter of the Titans Coeus and Phoebe, and the sister of Asteria. There was a notorious shrine dedicated to her in the nearby region of Letoon which was linked to the urban center by a sacred road. Her sanctuary shrine in Letoon significantly predates Hellenistic influence in the region. She is also used as a patron goddess for other cities, including Kos, Oenoanda and Delos.

The city-state of Xanthos was also known for a devastating last stand against the invading Persian Empire. When the general Harpagus of Persia attempted to conquer the city, he defeated a small Lycian army. The remaining forced retreated to Xanthos, where they dismantled their acropolis and systematically killed their wives, children and slaves. Finally, the inferior force attacked Harpagus’ army in a suicidal charge, cementing their deeds in history.

The Lycian region was also noted in the pseudo-mythos regarding Alexander the Great’s conquering of the region. According to legends, Alexander was exploring the sacred springs near the city’s main river, eventually finding a glinting object in the water. He obtained a inscribed bronze tablet which foretold that the Greeks would destroy the Persian Empire.

Under the yoke of the Roman Empire, the Lycian city refused to pay tribute and was destroyed, though accounts differ on the exact motivations. The city would eventually be rebuilt as part of a massive restoration project instigated by Mark Antony.

Upon the Byzantium era, Xanthos thrived alongside other Lycian cities. Churches and basilicas were built as Christianity emerged prominently in the region.

Stories continue to redouble the further one researches the region. The breadth of preservation is astonishing and I was extraordinarily pleased by the visit.

Long May The Departed Stand

Xanthos isn’t a single place, but rather a network of ruins spread over a rather large area. I began by visiting the outdoor theater (Ksanthos Theater), a massive bowl in the earth filled with white stones and an astonishing number of bold lizards darting about.

One of the unique things about this specific area is the massive Harpy Monument. This includes a large, rectangular pillar on an elevated pedestal with an enclosed burial chamber atop it. This is one of the finest examples of the Lycian Pillar Tomb. The ashes of the dead were thought to be burned and placed within the topmost opening. 

While the embossments of the burial chamber itself was abducted years ago and remains the property of the British Museum, there are references and pictures showing what the original art looked like. Included in the depictions and descriptions are harpies. While popular culture has turned harpies into human-bird hybrids known for it’s monstrous traits and an association with stormy winds, the winged woman have a different role in Lycian culture. They are thought to have more siren-like qualities, drawing the soul upwards, carrying the spirits of the departed to the Afterworld.

Beyond the grander ruins, there are numerous other stone features, mostly still being excavated and organized. The entire area provides compelling overlooks of the modern town below.

The Broad Roads

The rest of Xanthos was defined largely by its other enduring monuments. Short roads of pale stones with dogs sunning themselves on the stones stretched over mountains. A Byzantine Basilica was seated atop a small rise, surrounded by rough shrubbery.

To be perfectly honest, Xanthos is impressive. But it should be visited first, because the nearby ruins of Letoon Sanctuary Place are far more expansive. Like Xanthos, Letoon is regarded as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It holds the honor as one of the most important religious centers in the region.

Much like Xanthos, huge blocks of enduring stone decorate the site. There’s an intact Hellenistic Theater and a temple to Artemis, as well as several other religious structures. The site is considered crucial for it’s artifacts, many of which can be found at the Fethiye Archeological Museum. The site has numerous epitaphs and other text sources which were vital in decoding the long-extinct Lycian language.

Coasts and Cliffs

Upon finally leaving Letoon and Xanthos, I took a steady, calming drive along the coast. It’s a worthy way to spend time. There are jagged cliffs and views of impossibly turquoise-blue waters stretching into the distance. The road curves like a riled sidewinder, demanding attention even as the natural splendor of the region pulls attention into the distance. 

I managed to stop at Kaputaş Plajı during the drive, sitting and enjoying a late breakfast of bananas and Turkish-brand chips. While seated, I typed down my recollections and notes for this eventual article.

Strictly speaking, my day isn’t over. I plan on making it to Kas later today, a port town of considerable beauty and a major stopping point on the Lycian Trail. However, I think this is a good stopping point.

So until I make it to the next town over,

Best regards and excellent trails,

Old Sean

Written April 9th, 2024

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